Freya Underground

Blog moved !!!

2008-04-02T07:29:00.005+01:00

My blog has moved to my website http://www.qajaqunderground.com/!

All old posts are moved, too.

Please change all links related to this old blog! Thanks.

Welcome to my freshly set up website!

Freya

Australia

2008-03-12T16:09:00.003+01:00

Yes, I'll do it.

"Race around Australia"

In a kayak :-). Solo. Unsupported. Starting this year.

I'm just working on a new website and blog with Derrick, so please check with me in a few days about more details and plenty of pics of the other trips! Things just take their time...and I'm sometimes working for my shops, too...

infected by the surfski virus - The Culebra Challenge

2008-03-04T22:23:00.006+01:00

The internet connects the world...and sometimes brings some highly infectious virus to your own house...

I got infected with the surfski virus only three weeks ago... just by watching some great little videos on youtube which a certain kayak-crazy journalist from New York linked to me on some inspiring e-mails...he actually planned just to write some stuff about my NZ-trip...and happened to be a passionate surfski paddler, too.

Not that Oscar Chalupsky for sure hopped on one of these to show me some decent strokes 4 weeks ago (see last post)...but on flatwater I didn't find that craft too attractive on that occasion :-)) - and I'm rather attracted to the rough stuff...

Anyway, after meeting Oscar to try the epic 18x for maybe my next big expedition I straight drove back some days later to Alex Craven from Oarsport, the German epic distributor in Hamburg, to try the surfskis out by myself!

I tried to squeezed myself in the epic V10, but felt my female hipbones needed a bit more space...I felt instantly comfi then in the a bit more wider (and stable) epic V10 sport.

Some 1/2 hr up-and downpaddling on the Dove Elbe's flatwater was enough for me to get me hooked...and I was allowed to take a demo V10 sport home! Thanks to Alex, Oscar and Greg from epic!

My first 4-hrs testpaddle on the freezing February Baltic Sea's windwaves at force 5-6 gave me some more confidence on that tippy craft, and the most frozen feet I ever had in my life - but who cares!!! Just dress better next time, as I had already the vision of *THIS* .....

On a solo training run off San Juan harbour entrance, I felt I was better waiting for a huge cruise boat to come in. Just passed a pot of 15 dolfins, and a 1 m sea turtle was floating by...

a>- joining the Culebra Race in Puerto Rico!

Not that I'm spontanious - but it was only one week from the first try to be THERE. Thanks to the organization talent of Harry Negron to fit me in last minute!

I took the chance of 6 training runs - each about 2hrs paddles with only about 1/2 hrs downwind before the race day - but my confidence to survive the race and to display not the worst figure on the new craft on racing day grew day by day...some bracing hard sometimes, but at least I didn't fell off...

Joe and I checking out the skis in the hotel lagoon.

Great to have the help of good friends as a newbie! Thanks to the Puerto Rican strong local paddlers Harry Negron, Federico Muskus, Jaime Ponce, Anitza Villalobos and Hector Cartagena, who helped me on the ski the first days, and thanks to Joe Glickman and to Greg Barton from team epic to take good care of me later!

Greg, Joe and I were preparing our GPS's with the position of the final destination of the race on the Puerto Rico main island.

Waiting for the ferry to Culebra: Greg Barton, Anitza Villalobos, Joe Glickman

part of team epic on the ferry...it was actually that bumpy we all had our weak minutes with seasickness...

A happy vacation transportation to the hotel...Greg Barton, myself, Joe Glickman, Anitza Villalobos, Federico Muskus, Jaime Ponce, Harry Negron

tropical felings...

a fine line-up of shark fins...

Race start - Greg Barton with the no. 1, I was no. 13, right besides Anitza Villalobos in the first orange ski. I managed to somehow stay in her wake on the flat water part, but on the rough stuff she slowly pulled off...K1-training and more surfski experience won! Great strong girl. 5 min ahead, 3hrs 38 min on 24 miles.

group pic after the award's ceremony

There are already great postings about results and more pics of the event on Greg's blog and on surfski.info

It was one of the great spontanious decisions in my life to go for it NOW, who knows where it will take me to in future! And I will love to be back next year.

Surfski paddling and racing on the open ocean is great fun, exciting and challenging - just what I needed after my long solo New Zealand trip - chasing a field of 20 strong men and (only...) one strong woman for 24 miles across the open ocean! I think it will make me a more powerful, fast and balanced expedition sea kayaker, too...

I hope to join more races, and whoever likes to try the ski when I'm travelling to symposiums with my van, is more than welcome!

This is where my dreams will continue for now - I stored my ski on the ceiling of my living room, as my backyard boat shed is roomy, but too short...right under a 4 m x 2,50 m world map... - well, I might take it down occasionally to get it wet again for some more exciting paddling :-))

The epic story continues... (updated)

2008-02-14T23:00:00.007+01:00

Epic kayak co-owner Oscar Chalupsky insisted in putting me in the kayak matching the epic wing blades I used and loved for all my sea kayaking trips: the epic 18x performance sea kayak

How could I resist to try, and to get some personal private lessons on an effectice forward stroke from the world champion?

I love speed and the rough stuff, and I am as ambitious about new experiences in sea kayaking as Oscar is to share his long-time racing experience - a good match!

So I was the attentive student, and realized I had to work hard on my forward stroke.

I should use my legs more, which are positioned best unlocked and held together in the epic 18 kayak. And I should use more body rotation.

The mean thing about this lesson was I wasn't allowed to use a spraydeck, so Oscar could *see* what I was (not) doing with my legs... :-)) - at least he expected them to stay together!!! :-)))))

I developed my stroke in sea kayaks where you mostly paddle with the knees spread wide and locked under the cockpit rim. I more or less worked with my upper body only, legs locked, with few rotation.

I was used to no rudder, to edge the kayak and to shift the paddle for directional control. The coordination of leg movement and NO unnecessary rudder movement with the toes was a bit tricky at the beginning.

My forward stroke was self-taught, and I have never worked with a good instructor with a racing background in a kayak allowing this knee position and using a rudder.

Paddling this "semi-racing" style is a complete new experience, fun and - faster!!!

But you can lock your legs just conventionally, too, so picking the position matching the water conditions and your skills and ambitions is an advantage of the epic 18.

However, I felt somehow *fast* with my self-taught stroke for a female late-beginner sea kayaker though - but it doesn't hurt to become even more faster! :-))

Pictures by Alex Craven, Hamburg

I was allowed to take a demo epic 18x performance kayak home for some more paddling, and I will decide the next days how I'll feel with it. If I am happy with it for future fast paddling, I'll get my own one soon! Special black carbon ultra light version for sure...

Picture by Paul Caffyn, New Zealand

At least I decided to tie myself a bit more to my loved epic wing blade not to lose it again on any trip!

Picture by Paul Caffyn, New Zealand

Priorities...and a write-up of the most eventful day of the NZ-trip

2008-02-03T18:58:00.000+01:00

I am used to set priorities -

Being back home my mind swapped mor or less easy from the exciting trip and "after trip" work, like sorting out pics for a slide show and writing up the last days, to the "real" work with what I am earning my money.,,

My shops needed lots of attention after being off that long! I had to do the X-mas-shop inventory, a 5-days trip to the world's biggest x-mas exhibition in Frankfurt to shop for new items for the 2008-season, a meeting with my ice-cream-shop franchise partners for the 2008-season, some renovating of the ice-cream shops, moving the x-mas stuff off the shop into the warehouse and the ice-cream stuff in it's place again, updating my accounts with catching up with the past three month of paperwork...not many time left for paddling thoughts! And my family got some attention, too...

Anyway, I was happy I already wrote up that "eventful" day on the last days's at Paul's, that day where I broke my stern in the morning and lost my paddle at night. I took the chance of Paul's presence for asking him to proofreading my bad written English...thanks, Paul!

I'm not sure if I can get my mind (timewise) on some more after-trip writing and working on the promised book - there must be *some* failure in what I planned and announced to do...

I am posting that day's report here now - my mind prefers to jump after the necessary shop work into the future to the next trips already, rather than sticking to the past adventures... :-)) - but we'll see what I feel I can get done one day writing-wise...

Just a normal day on the West Coast…20.12.2007

Suddenly I held my whole kayak in my hand. I took my shirt off, ready to jump into my sleeping bag, and it just fell off. It was tied to my neck with a black leather string ever since I began sea kayaking. It was my talisman - my good omen pendant. The cord had never broken before, but now I could just rip the whole leather string into small pieces. It was just plain worn out.

But I didn’t loose the kayak pendant. I still held it in my hand!

I was too tired to go outside to my real kayak, through the hundreds of sandflies occupying the exit ready to enter the tent and suck my blood. I didn’t search in the repair kit for a new string. I just stuffed the pendant into my pocket, and forgot about it the next morning…

I should have checked the leather string regularly for still being strong enough, and I should have checked the clips and screws of my three piece, Nigel Dennis Explorer kayak, regularly for still being strong enough. Both obviously not frequent enough.

I would have to punch out through some big lines of surf this morning. The dress code would be helmet and bug net, but I skipped the latter. I swallowed several sandflies, spat them out and tried to blow them off my face. One of the beasts felt happy flying right into my eye. It was irritating when I was trying to concentrate on the best launching time and place.

I got washed up the beach again several times, and eventually broached high up on dry sand. I jumped out to straighten the kayak, only to get several breakers full of sand water into the cockpit. I emptied it out with some effort, including falling over some times by the force of new breakers - good nobody was there to watch…

Eventually I made it straight through the first breaker, braced into the second, but the third one got me! It surfed me backwards to the beach, digged my stern into the sand. It rolled me up the beach, no chance to fight against the violent force of the sea. No idea how I ended up sitting upright on the dry land again, sideways for sure...

Yuppp, ok, sh^#* happens, jumping out again, straightening the kayak, jumping in again for another launch. Don’t give up! That was the plan - so far so good.

Jumping out was no problem. I grabbed the bow toggle to turn the kayak around, wondering why it felt so easy. Bugger! The stern section was bent at a very unusual angle from the cockpit section.

This is what I never wanted!
“Du bloede Kuh! Wie kann man nur so doof sein?” - I called out this and some more serious loud German cursing to myself for my stupid actions…

An ugly big chunk of fibreglass was missing from the deck. Both hooks of the hull clips were bent almost straight.

The two hull clips just slid off the hooks, straightening the heavy stainless steal on the bending force of the impact of the stern to the ground. But who knows what would have happened to a one piece kayak??
The two deck clips were still in position. I loosened the deck clips to check the whole damage.
Maybe if I had checked the stainless steel connections more often, it might not have happened. But maybe if I had tightened the clips more often, the hooks may have deformed even earlier. Maybe, if I had received my brand new kayak in time, instead of taking the old one it wouldn’t have happened? This one already did a great job around Iceland this summer, but - it was too late now for regrets. There were two pieces of kayak on the beach now, instead of one. And I was on a wild west coast beach with no road access or houses.

My mind searched for solutions; no way to call for help. I need to fix it myself, and keep on going!

Don’t even think about I was in the mood for taking a picture now of the incident! 1000ds of sandflies still flying around my head, making the forced break not really a more happy event…

I checked the hooks on the hull, but to see clearly, I had to wash the sand off first. One looked more bent open than the other. I could try to bend it back into shape again, with a big rock as a hammer. I could even swap it to another hook from maybe the front deck. I could duct tape or even glass the whole stern section to the cockpit section, to make it more solid with the bad hook. I should have taken a spare set of hooks for that case! But I hadn’t.

The chunk of fibreglass missing on the deck didn’t affect the watertightness of the boat, so good luck for that - so just the rock hammer solution was the first thing to try.

Hundreds of sandflies around my head again - they love black as much as I do. I took my helmet off, but left the hood on. The bug net would have been a better choice, but I wanted to get going, not to bother with those little details of comfort. My bare hands were also a target of those sucking beasts. Blowing them away, whilst working on the boat, was another part of the multi-tasking morning. In bright sunshine I got nicely hot in my black gear, sweating from stress and mental strain.

The hook was solid massive stainless steal, but was still bent open from the force of the impact. Not an easy job for a tool out of the stone-age. I was worried to hammer too much, either to break the hook or to hammer the screws loose, which were holding them.

Eventually it looked like it might hold enough to give it a try. I tightened the clips and screws with my multi tool as best as possible, but no overdoing it! For sure the multi tool got full of saltwater and sand, too.

The bent back hooks felt soft on tightening the clips, but it looked like they would hold enough for me to continue. That night I hoped to land sound and safe in the Wanganui River mouth anyway, where there might be people around to help. This is what I figured.

A more attentive look around that beach, through the sandfly clouds, would have shown me a nearby little river mouth before the first launching try, only about 100 m away. It would be a slog to get the fully loaded boat there, but no more risks!

Option one: Unloading again, carrying two or three heavy bags of gear to the river, dragging or carrying the light boat easier then to the mouth. It would take three return trips.
Option two: Dragging the fully loaded kayak 20-30m to the surf slop, and dragging it in more or less floating manner to the river mouth, cockpit covered to keep the dumpers out.

I decided on option two. There were still enough layers of fibreglass on the bottom to get worn off in this way. I dragged the heavy boat downhill, metre by metre, straddling the cockpit and pulling on the rim. In the slop I used my towline to haul the kayak, which was rolled up the beach several times by the surge. Eventually it floated sufficiently to drag it more or less easy to where I wanted to start again.

Jumping in the cockpit, ready to start, I noticed I had forgotten to attach the spare paddle bag on the back deck properly. Jumping out again, I clipped it back on.

Jumping in again, I noticed my skeg launching line was hanging loose instead of going straight back to the skeg. Since sand pebbles jammed the skeg blade in the skeg box quite often, I ran a long cord loop from the skeg blade to the cockpit, so I could ensure I could pull the skeg into position after launching. But the small loop on the skeg broke from the dragging force over the ground, just before the second launching try.

Again I jumped out, fished for the spare string sitting in my map case, attached a new loop on the skeg, and threaded the launching cord through the loop again.

Then the map case couldn’t be closed again with all the sand, I needed to undo the four carabiners holding it, take it off the deck and wash the clips out in the river.

I attached it to the deck again, and was ready to start again eventually! Two hours lost! I had a late morning anyway. 10am now - be patient, Freya! - only 60 km to go.

Turning around for a last look, revealed an obvious wooden cross with something long looking like a grave further up the beach. What happened here years ago? It was quite a spooky place. Not only did I nearly lose my kayak pendant, but I also came ever so close to losing the stern section of my kayak.

Launching from the little river mouth was easy then after all. Why didn’t I see that option earlier? The boat was more or less afloat already, then my timing for punching through the lowest possible breaker was good, and I was off. My stern came with me.

On the open sea, time to relax. Releasing the skeg with the cord loop, stuffing the cord away, taking my helmet off, sliding it under the back deck net, taking the fuzzy rubber hood and PFD off, but where was the carabiner clipped to the loop of my spray skirt? Gone, probably stuck open by sand and slipped off. At sea I used this carabiner to clip onto my PFD when I was not wearing it in calm conditions.

Finally opening the velcro neck of my paddle jacket for ventilation, put some sunscreen on, and ready to go!

The GPS stuffed under the deck net survived the whole launching drama, the kiwifruit and apples in the little deck bag were squeezed - fruit salad with salt water is good nutrition anyway.

The Waiho River mouth came up after 15 km, the outflow of the white glacier water was clearly to be seen from the distance. Green warmer sea water and white glacier river water don’t just mix gradually. The border is sharp - suddenly you are paddling a river instead on the sea!

After entering the sea, the West Coast rivers all swung to the north, with positive benefit of is a speed increases about 1-2 km/h - just like entering a glacier highway. But everything looks more 3-dimensional, the swell, breakers and normal waves appear higher and just somehow scary in bright sunlight. Floating pieces of wood scared the hell out of me, it might be a shark - but just plenty of playful dolphins were visible, the great white thankfully stayed camouflaged in the milky white glacier waters.

I followed my GPS, with my speed increasing all day, satisfying at least, not too bad after that eventful morning!

Whataroa River mouth flew out just before Abut Head, but less milky, less scary, less added speed. About 15 km left to the destination.

The Oneone River mouth had a wee hut site, civilisation was close again! The triangular shape of Mt. Oneone before was a clear landmark. Behind there should be Wanganui River mouth, my safe harbour for the night.

But where was it exactly? The swell and waves were pretty high that late afternoon. What I could figure out sitting high on a wave crest was not too much - just endless white lines of breakers everywhere - not too inviting to land at all!

Maybe it is behind the next bluff? It must be, as there are no huts to be seen here? No interruption in the beach line, just white breakers and endless sand. Another look on my GPS showed it must be right here, just behind the triangle mountain! I could see a darker zone right in the mountain’s shadow. I need to get closer and have a look!

Somehow I was able to avoid three huge offshore breakers, just shouting at them, “You don’t get me, you bloody bastard!” ending up highest on top of the first one, bracing into the second one, and punching forward again through the third one. Then there I was, halfway closer, in a quietish zone of water.
“Get closer, Freya, eventually you’ll see where the river mouth might be!”
Some more careful approaching, and the last dumper looked temporarily like I could handle it. A sandy beach anyway, so why keep on searching for that hidden river mouth, when I could just land here? Time it right, and I’ll be OK…

I had a 1:250.000 map, plus my GPS with the Blue Chart map, which was generally precise enough for the whole trip. But even on maps with a bigger scale, river mouths are not always where they should be, as they are changing over the time. And this time the Blue Chart GPS was just wrong. Maybe a loaded Topo map might have been more precise.

But the most precise guiding would have been using my brain! I was successfully approaching and entering already some other river mouth on the West Coast, means don’t get irritated about the endless line of breakers, just keep on paddling to the north, still way out, clear of all breakers.

Eventually from the northern side there will be showing up a zone with less breakers on the more flat north beach of the river mouth, and maybe you can even enter the river over the bar without catching too many breakers.

What irritated me this time was the GPS map position, the shadow zone behind the triangle Mt. Oneone which I thought my have been the river mouth, also the lack of huts to be seen, as I was sitting way out there on up and down going waves without any precise vision of the shoreline. Unfortunately I just dangerously underestimated the final shore dumpers, once through the first breaker zone. The surf is always BIGGER than it looks!

I waited carefully for the final beach landing through what I estimated was a ‘normal size’ dumper, and eventually paddled in past a big one.

It was a bad run, either wrong timing or not fast enough. I started to sprint from too far off the beach. The surge went way up and down a long way, which should have indicated to me a violent dumper size, too!

I had successfully cleared the offshore breaker zone, had a few moments to rest on quieter water, and assess how should I not be able to handle that last barrier!

I was almost safe up the beach, when the next dumper came. Later I saw they made their way at a 45˚ angle northwards along the beach. That final mighty dumper just developed where I didn’t expect it, to the right of me instead of from behind.

It trashed me violently. A high brace was useless. During the inevitable capsize my paddle was wrenched from my hands - no chance to hold on to it. I probably tumbled sideways up the beach two or three times, lying flat on the back deck until I managed with an already well practised ‘beach hand roll’ to sit upright high on shore, where the surge of the dumper spit me out. I was luckily in one piece, and my kayak was, too! Good to be flexible, and the repaired stern obviously held that rolling style…

But my paddle was gone! My loved ‘special edition’ black Epic wing blade had disappeared! Swallowed by the dumping sea, like the sea was laughing at me, “If you are *that* foolish to dare to land here, I have to take your favourite toy away!”

Where was it? I immediately jumped out of the kayak, realizing I had to be quick to find it. The seas swept northwards at 45˚, so it might be washed in that direction! But although walking up and down the beach several times, saying (in German), “Little sweet paddle, please come back to me! I am naked and helpless without you!” – not a single glimpse of my paddle again L

The trip had good and badder days. This was the most eventful day of my trip. But I’m unhurt, my repairs to the clips were successful, I had spare wing paddle, nothing really to stop me to continue…

Victurus Vicero! (Keep on Fighting!)

I found some NZPA finish day pics

2008-01-14T22:54:00.000+01:00

Picture by Tim Cuff

There are some more on that link:

http://www.nzpaimages.co.nz/preview.php?image_id=40921

I'm back home! Some dumper launching pics...

2008-01-14T21:14:00.000+01:00

I made it safely back home again, quiet flights, no overweight money, low kayak shipping fees...lucky kid!

What a difference being back into the winter! Early darkness, cold, grey sky...but there is no time to be sad...

I joined already a buisiness meeting, checked on my shops, and am at home mostly busy answering e-mails, phoning friends, and editing all my hundreds pics !

The write-up of the trip is waiting, besides a pile of bills, newspapers, three month of accounting needs to be done...and so on...

And I do want to spend some quality time with my family, too!

Anyway, I've got now the full set of four pics of that exciting East Coast launching.

Pictures are taken by Mary Kirk-Anderson.

Martin Fraser (left) and John Kirk Anderson (with helmet and pfd), waiting as close as possible for the right time to launch me

They are not pushing yet...just dealing with the previous dumper...

A BIG push now, Martin lost his Teva sandal in the surge...the disaster is piling up already...

JKA looks like he is saying:"Come on Freya, I know you are in there somewhere!" - and I was!

John Kirk-Anderson's posting on Paddlewise:
"After she had a few days off while waiting for swells to decrease we took Freya out at dawn on Sunday, back to the place she had landed on Thursday.
The surf had decreased but was still dumping on the steep shingle beach with the larger sets over two metres, easily enough to smash boats and bodies.
We watched the surf for a while and Freya finally decided to launch with our help. After a bit of a battle with the surge we launched her into a low surf which she got through, with one high brace after being knocked half-over.
She lost her speed in the set and the next wave was one of the biggest of the morning.
I have no idea how she managed to get through it. Her kayak stood on end and the wave collapsed on top of her. Martin and I sprinted away from the area, expecting her smashed kayak to be flung out on top of us. After the carnage cleared she rose from the spray and calmly paddled away, stopping to give us a wave before continuing south.
We were left shaking and gob-smacked, while some watching fishermen were still clapping.
She made good progress and was met further south by another friend who camped with her before helping her launch again.
Last night I had a call from her, sitting in "A meadow in the middle of nowhere", as she put it. Another long day, she is in good spirits and making good progress.
She asked how big the surf was when she left, as she had her head down. She said it took her an hour to lose the adrenaline feeling from her legs!
Paul Caffyn is going to meet her for a few days, but the forecast is for gales, so her paddling may come to a halt again for a while."

Back Home on Wednesday

2008-01-04T05:47:00.000+01:00

I managed to change my flight, being back home on Wednesday, January 9th.

I just need to fight 12hrs of jetlag then...so all the promised calls have to wait some time then...and back to buisiness soon again, too!

It's still here a busy time, plenty of media interest! But anyway, I feel my biggest challenge after the trip was the announced booklet...but if you don't get it out in the open you might not do it at all...so some longish office work will put on some weight on me again soon :-)) Paul promised some support!

The Final Leg - I'm done!

2008-01-03T04:42:00.000+01:00

Well, what shall I write - too much going on again! So many people wishing me well in person, via e-mail, on blog comments or on the phone - busy times! I would like to thank everybody again for mental and practical support, and will answer all your lovely e-mails shortly!

I finished my trip on Wednesday 2nd, 3.15 pm, after a last day and night’s leg of 165 km, just to make it a bit harder… Actually, the forecast for the next two days sounded like stronger winds again, and I didn't want to wait any more days to be done!

I had already planned to finish off with an 85 km crossing of Tasman Bay before I started the trip, therefore I decided to launch from Okiwi Bay.

French Pass would have been even better and would have saved another day, but it would have been just such a loooooooong drive to get out there...and I was just happy about Bevan Walker driving me spontaneously out to Okiwi Bay at all that night before starting, after his own long hard day's work. Thanks again to Bevan!

To add even a bit more icing on the trip cake, the final crossing started at 10pm after I had paddled 80 km in 15 hours – the night paddle would add another 17.5 hours to a challenging 165 km leg.

The overall trip data statistics are available here (thanks to Derrick Mayoleth for uploading the file).

Just some key figures here:
2386 km total, 70 overall days, 48 paddling days averaging about 50 km per paddling day. First woman to circumnavigate the South Island, 30 years after Paul Caffyn's brilliant first trip, the third solo, unsupported and continuous journey, fifth person to complete the whole circle. Fastest circumnavigation ever.

What an amazing experience and finish! The previous day's scenery was the best of my whole trip, one lovely remote sandy beach besides the next, between rocks shaped in an endless row of caves and arches. I was able to paddle through three of the biggest arches on New Years day, which I suppose brings luck to me! The swell was low that day, and I could have landed anywhere without much trouble in the surf.

I knew especially this last stretch of coastline could be very difficult and would have proved to be the last challenge of the trip with no sheltered landing since Little Wanganui River (Karamea), but I felt lucky to paddle on a sunny day with quiet waters to fully enjoy this last leg of the trip. Just some moderate headwinds to deal with on the start - nothing to complain much about!

Fighting tiredness was the downside of a long push. In Iceland, Greg Stamer and I had paddled through one night for 22 hours. I was interested to see how my body could cope with a longer session without landing in New Zealand.

From dusk, I paddled without my headlight switched on until about 1am, navigating for 1.5 hours along the breaking surf off Farewell Spit by sound only. Mostly between 1am and 5am, I regularly had to collapse on to the front deck, taking 30 second powernaps.

Or I stretched out on the rear deck, using my helmet stuck under a net on the deck as a pillow and closed my eyes for some seconds. For some minutes, I just paddled like that, lying on the rear deck and having my favourite star combination in the sky for navigating, perfectly in view! And it was good to occasionally lift my backside off the seat sometimes, as it started to feel quite sore after so many hours paddling. I would always then take care to slowly raise my body back into the paddling position, to avoid damage to my spine.

Occasionally I drew too close to the surf zone, got caught by breakers, and I had to brace into them. Most breakers washed my PFD off the front deck but it remained clipped with a carabiner to my spray skirt loop. The waves were sensual to move with, up, down and sideways. Nothing seriously breaking or being violent that night! Warm waters anyway, a flat beach with no obstacles threatening. Just in case I would have been washed up and stranded on the beach, I would not have cared!

What helped me paddling through the night was I really enjoy paddling with closed eyes for long distances, being able to dance blind with the waves, and if necessary navigate by sound despite any wave conditions! One hour after I passed the Farewell Spit lighthouse, I could no longer hear the sound of waves breaking on the sand, and heard only silence. I knew I had reached the end of that very long spit. Now the open waters of Tasman Bay lay ahead and the start of a long 85km crossing.

It was the best decision I could have made, just to keep going through the night! It was such a lovely tranquil night after an already calm day without much swell - millpond seas, a clear sky with attractive new southern star pictures for me to look at and to navigate with, and some fascinating bioluminescence effects in the water!

This natural phenomena of bioluminescence while paddling through the night was like a one day delayed personal New Year's eve fireworks, endless entertainment almost all night.

On each paddle stroke, tiny waves created by the kayak bow stirred lines of glowing sparkles. Droplets splashed over my kayak, sticking to my paddle and gear, and glowing for some seconds until the next splash of glowing water.

And then the dolphins - three times for about 10 minutes, four to six dolphins played with my boat, leaving glowing traces of water behind them! I could always follow exactly where they were, by their glowing white trails in the sea beneath the sparkling starlight.

Once I felt I had to fight tiredness more than being distracted and kept alert by the bioluminescent entertainment, I switched my headlight on, trying to keep my body and mind awake- more or less successfully.

The rising sun at 5am gave my body some relief as it marked my usual waking up time. I was able to paddle temporarily a bit more strongly after a few breakfast cereal bars.

I was successfully fighting my usually early morning need for a ‘big’ toilet walk. In case I had to go, I had planned to jump into the warmish water and strip off my pants. Peeing was no problem anyway with my funnel and hose female urinating device.

I began noticing sore rub spots on my backside after sitting in the cockpit seat for so long. I was wearing a warm combination of fuzzy rubber pants over fleece pants, which gave me a kind of a slight nappy rash.

While approaching my final destination, I entertained myself with cell phone calls to family and friends, and was very happy to be in range and touch again.

I had called Paul at 9pm the previous night to let him know my estimated arrival time and to inform him about my planned night paddling. It took him a while, and about three times, asking, “So, where are you staying tonight?” to realize I would keep paddling after reaching the tip of Farewell Spit.

I would arrive in a decent time, by doing a night crossing, rather than sleeping for some hours and ending the crossing at 11pm or even midnight. Paul was happy to organize a ‘welcome party’ with plenty of friends paddling with me for the last kilometre. Thanks to all of you coming out to greet me!

Fiona and Martin Fraser prepared a Pavlova, with sliced kiwifruit, chocolate flakes and lashings of whipped cream on top. Luckily it was decided not to throw it in my face, but rather to allow me to eat it and share it around- the champagne sprayed by Paul was messy enough already! Thanks for the hot shower at David Oldham's house; he also provided the launch for the press and TV reporters, too!

The TV3 crew flew in by helicopter at 2pm, but couldn't spot me on the water. They landed and joined the motorboat crew to film me on my last kilometre, together with the press reporters. JKA from the Christchurch Press was not kayaking but was in the boat with cameras. So good to have a paddling photo reporter amongst the kayaking friends!

( Editor - you can view the news footage of Freya's landing here )

But a big thanks to Paul Caffyn organizing the welcome party! He was my great public relations manager and local trip organizer throughout the whole trip, driving me around, supporting me with local knowledge and hosting me for quite a while!
I ended up (so far) with 8 different newspaper articles during the trip, some published in various papers all over New Zealand. Two times the trip got reported on the TV3 news, and a radio interview followed today. Without his contacts I probably wouldn't have bothered.

A big thanks to Karel Vissel, who supported me with reliable, regular weather text messages on my Sat-phone and provided some blog updates.

A big thanks to Greg Stamer, who updated my blog regularly.

A big thanks to all my sponsors who supported me with generously with great gear for that trip and beyond! I'll write a gear list soon.

A big thanks to my partner Werner organizing things at home and with my shops, and to be patient waiting for me at home, together with our loved son Helge.

A big thanks to my shop managers Ilona Sierks and Andrea Hoehn who kept my shops running smoothly with the great support of all my about 30 loyal lovely girls working for me!

A big thanks again to all people I've met on my trip, who supported me mentally and practically with offering their homes and hospitality to me, encouraging me with supportive e-mails and comments!

And a big thanks to all people following this blog and supporting me with lovely comments! I still owe you a trip report of the days from Riverton on the south coast to the finish! So much writing in one rush can't be done that fast, sorry. Actually I always felt pretty impolite when I got into people's houses, being hosted for a night or two, and I ‘urgently’ had to jump on the computer, to update this blog rather than talking to my hosts - sorry about that!

Not sure yet how much I'll post here and how much I'll reveal in my book only - just teasing you a bit! I can't post pics from here at Paul's computer, so this needs to wait a bit, too.

Progress Report 01/02/08; Circumnavigation Complete!

2008-01-02T19:50:00.000+01:00

Freya has completed her journey becoming the first woman to circumnavigate the south island! Please check back soon, for a personal update by Freya.

Freya -- on behalf of Karel Vissel and Myself, congratulations on an impressive achievement!!! We have enjoyed helping to support your efforts -Greg

The following message was received from Paul Caffyn;
Goodaye Freya completed her circumnavigation of the South Island at Okiwi Bay at
3.15pm this afternoon, 2 January 2008.

32 hours, 169km paddle from Big River to Okiwi Bay.

Good media presence, TV and newspapers.

Progress Report 01/01/08 Tuesday. Home Stretch!

2008-01-01T06:05:00.000+01:00

Editor's note. I received a phone call from Freya, while she was still on the water. Instead of stopping at the point shown on the map, she has instead paddled through the night and was well into her crossing with about 45 kilometers remaining to complete the final leg of her circumnavigation. That makes for a very long "day" of approximately 165km! She was feeling strong and very excited to be so close to her destination. Hopefully her next communication will be that she has completed her epic journey! -Greg

Weather update from Karel Vissel:
http://www.kayakweather.blogspot.com/
Tues mrng e 4bft noon ne 3bft aft w 2bft seas 1.20 swell 0.70mtr frm w

Wed mrng sw 3to4bft noon w 4bft aft w 5bft seas 1.20 swell 0.60mtr frm nw

ruby bay frcst wed mrng sw 4bft noon nw 3bft aft w 3bft seas 0.30 mtr no swell

Satellite Text Messages Received from Freya:
40.33 173.01 Farwell Spit lighthouse tonight

Progress Report 12/31/07 Monday

2007-12-31T23:54:00.001+01:00

Weather update from Karel Vissel:
http://www.kayakweather.blogspot.com/
Mon mrng s 1 to2bft noon se 1 to2bft aft e 2to3bft seas 2.20 swell 1.30mtr frm w

Tues mrng e 4bft noon ne 3bft aft w 2bft seas 1.20 swell 0.70mtr frmw

Satellite Text Messages Received from Freya:
40.46 172.16 Big River 80km 14hrs long but beautiful paddle. 4hrs solid headwinds at noon! Not southerlies... No satellite signal at night, sorry!

Maybe cut across tomorrow. Body and mind are on the "homerun"!

HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL! THANKS FOR ALL THE GOOD WISHES FOR 2008! WILL THE GODS OF THE SEVEN SEAS BE WITH YOU.

Progress Report 12/30/07 Sunday

2007-12-30T15:05:00.001+01:00

There's an interesting article and video clip from NZ TV, about Freya, with input from Paul Caffyn. Includes good footage of Freya crossing the Greymouth bar. You can read the story and see the video here . Many thanks to Derrick for this info -- Greg

Weather update from Karel Vissel:
http://www.kayakweather.blogspot.com/
Sun mrng se 2 to 3bft noon w 2 to3bft aft sw 3bft seas 2 .40 to 1.80 swell 1mtr frm w

Mon mrng s 1 to2bft noon se 1 to2bft aft e 2to3bft seas 2.20 swell 1.30mtr frm w

Satellite Text Messages Received from Freya:
41.23 172.04 In Little Wanganui. Flew with new (epic) wings up the coast. What a treat the last days! Lovely landing in river&camp. 3 to 4 more days...

Progress Report 12/29/07 Saturday

2007-12-29T02:34:00.001+01:00

Weather update from Karel Vissel:
http://www.kayakweather.blogspot.com/
Sat mrng s 2 to3bft noon w 3bft aft sw 4bft seas 3.50 swell 1.90 frm w

Sun mrng se 1 to2bft noon w 2 to3bft aft sw 4bft seas 1.90 swell 1 mtr frm w

Satellite Text Messages Received from Freya:
Westport today, Little Wamganui tomorrow. Good weather, seas warm, and easing a bit. What else do I need?

Westport good tailwinds all day easy landing Paul met me again to bring my new paddle.THANKS!

A BIG THANKS to Epic as they sent me a new midsize wing quickly and without problem to New Zealand, as I had to sacrifice my old one to the gods of the Tasman Sea...

Progress report 12/28/07 Friday

2007-12-28T03:52:00.001+01:00

Freya clears Greymouth River Bar in large seas. Photo by Paul Caffyn

Weather update from Karel Vissel:
http://www.kayakweather.blogspot.com/
Sat mrng s 2 to3bft noon w 3bft aft sw 4bft seas 3.50 swell 1.90 frm w

Sun mrng se 2 to 3bft noon w 2 to3bft aft sw 3bft seas 2 .40 to 1.80 swell 1mtr frm w

Update Received from Paul Caffyn:
Freya cleared the Greymouth River bar this morning - 28 Dec 2007 - at approx. 8.45am.

Intermittent breakers on the bar but Freya managed a clean run out to sea without getting her hair wet.

Big seas, but no wind so swell will subside as the day wears on.

Satellite Text Messages Received from Freya:
42.02 171.22 Woodpecker Bay TV3 filmed yesterday & launch today, good run out of Grey River. Still roughish sea. Nice sunny SANDFLYFREE camp here.

There will be some footage about my trip on New Zealand's Saturday TV3 news. My new paddle will arrive tomorrow. Thanks to Epic!

Progress report 12/27/07 Thursday

2007-12-27T14:25:00.000+01:00

5 days of x-mas bad weather days at Paul Caffyn's - we had the pleasure to host Gordon and Morag Brown for two days, too, with their two lovely kids Eilidh and Iain. They enjoyed being captains of their own kayaks in Paul's pool...and I keep on going on Friday with the middle section only...

Actually, I fibreglassed the stern section to the middle section now, to be sure the kayak stays in one piece on the last landings and launchings ;-)) Victurus Vicero!

The seas will be settled down a bit for the approximately last seven paddling days, if everything goes well as planned!

I'm ready to be done!

x-mas update by Freya

2007-12-23T01:41:00.000+01:00

An early Kiwi Christmas gift! Paul Caffyn hands Freya a beer upon her landing at Greymouth. Photo by Murry Cave.

I wish you all a Merry x-mas and Happy Holidays!
Thanks for all the lovely comments and best wishes on my blog, it feels good to know a lot of friends all over the world are following up my trip.

Last time I did a longer blog update was in Riverton on the South Coast, so many days and exciting adventures have passed since then that I feel now a bit overwhelmed in these two x-mas weather rest days at Paul's to catch up with all the writing.

But my trip diary is full of notes, and I am thinking of putting my experiences together in a little booklet. Pictures need to be edited and selected for a slideshow and website, too.

But all that takes time and different to my trip I don't really enjoy rushing writing and posting, maybe because it's in English and proves actually to be the hardest part for me of a trip like that :-)). But the rewarding comments make it well worth sharing the experience in the best possible way.

But if I really decide to go for the booklet written at home then, this won't take too long then, as memories need to be fresh on writing.

I'll do my best to complete my trip asap, and hope to keep my kayak and myself in ONE piece on launching and landing :-), and hope to have no more losses of precious loved gear!

Thanks to Karel Vissel for the daily precise weather updates, to Greg Stamer about updating my blog, to Paul Caffyn for mental and practical support, to my family about being patient with my absence and home managing, to my shop managers and workers to keep things going while I'm away, and to all the lovely people hosting and wishing me well along the way!

Merry x-mas!

Progress report 12/22/07 Saturday

2007-12-22T17:20:00.000+01:00

Weather update from Karel Vissel:
http://www.kayakweather.blogspot.com/
Sat mrng e 3bft noon nw 3bft aft w 3bft seas 1.40 mtr swell 0.80 frm w

Satellite Text Messages Received from Freya:
42.27 171.12 Grey River safe & sound with Paul & friends over xmas. Taking even tomorrow off due to xmas parties starting tonight :)

Progress report 12/21/07 Friday; Still trucking...

2007-12-21T15:07:00.000+01:00

Weather update from Karel Vissel:
http://www.kayakweather.blogspot.com/
Fri mrng e 3bft noon nw 2 to3bft aft w 3bft seas 2mtr swell 1.10 mtr frm w

Sat mrng e 3bft noon nw 3bft aft w 3bft seas 1.40 mtr swell 0.80 frm w

Satellite Text Messages Received from Freya:
42.43 170.57 Hokitika Took the chicken run this morning out of a side river no more risk for body boat blade see Paul Caffyn tonight for mental support :)

Easy day to Greymouth only 40km tomorrow Christmas seems like well deserved weath.rest days! Gordon Brown will be around at Paul's, good timing! :)

HAPPY BIRTHDAY to Paul Caffyn today!

Progress report 12/20/07 Thursday; Surf Trouble

2007-12-20T15:59:00.000+01:00

Weather update from Karel Vissel:
http://www.kayakweather.blogspot.com/
Thu mrng ne2 to 3bft noon w 3bft aft sw 3bft seas 3.30 to 2.70 mtr swell 1.60 mtr frm w

Fri mrng e 3bft noon nw 2 to3bft aft w 3bft seas 2mtr swell 1.10 mtr frm w

Satellite Text Messages Received from Freya:
43.02 170.25 Wanganui R F*%K! Lost my stern on launch, repaired. Lost my paddle on landing, gone. F*&K! But I'm ok. Just stupid misjudgement.

Editor's note: I have been in contact with Breanna of Epic kayaks. She is working intently to get a replacement Epic paddle (205cm midsize wing), to Paul Caffyn, for delivery to Freya. Freya does carry a spare, and is able to continue. However her spare is a larger blade size than what she normally prefers, and a spare is needed for safety.

Update: Freya is using a sectional 3-piece kayak. The clips holding the stern section were damaged, and Freya is worried that they might fail, but they are still holding as of this writing. Nigel Dennis has ordered new clips but they will take some time to arrive -Greg

Progress report 12/19/07 Wednesday

2007-12-19T15:39:00.000+01:00

Weather update from Karel Vissel:
http://www.kayakweather.blogspot.com/
Wed mrng s3bft noon w 3bft aft w 4bft seas 2.80 mtr swell 1.50 mtr frm nw

Thu mrng ne2 to 3bft noon w 3bft aft sw 3bft seas 3.30 to 2.70 mtr swell 1.60 mtr frm w

Satellite Text Messages Received from Freya:
43.23 169.55 beh. Galway Point went in early today 65km paddled with closed eyes all day to relax mind body still had to work, steady but slowly.

Progress report 12/18/07 Tuesday

2007-12-18T15:07:00.001+01:00

Weather update from Karel Vissel:
http://www.kayakweather.blogspot.com/
Tues mrng s4bft noon sw 4bft aft sw 4bft seas 2.20 to 2.80 mtr swell 1.30 mtr frm nw

Wed mrng s3bft noon w 3bft aft w 4bft seas 2.80 mtr swell 1.50 mtr frm nw

Satellite Text Messages Received from Freya:
43.42 169.15 90km Whakapohai River good surfing day, but mentally draining when high. At least found a sheltered landing. In a hut & cold shower!

Progress report 12/17/07 Monday

2007-12-17T15:50:00.001+01:00

Weather update from Karel Vissel:
http://www.kayakweather.blogspot.com/
Mon mrng ne 4bft noon sw 3bft aft sw 3bft seas 1.70mtr swell 1 mtr frm nw
Tues mrng s4bft noon sw 4bft aft sw 4bft seas 2.20 to 2.80 mtr swell 1.30 mtr frm nw

Satellite Text Messages Received from Freya:
44.02 168.22 Cascade River mouth 65km staying in the entrance of a private hut. Nobody home. Fun on the river entrance good paddle in RAIN!

It will be a lovely day! The rain seems to be gone, following winds for at least 3 days, no lack of food, good spirits and body condition!

Progress report 12/16/07 Sunday

2007-12-17T03:18:00.001+01:00

Weather update from Karel Vissel:
http://www.kayakweather.blogspot.com/
Sun ne 4bft mrng tru eve seas 2mtr swell 1.10mtr frm n to nw

Mon mrng ne 4bft noon sw 3bft aft sw 3bft seas 1.70mtr swell 1 mtr frm nw

Satellite Text Messages Received from Freya:
44.26 167.52 Dumping Beach. Who is the rider in storm and waves? It's La Ninja in her Roaring Fourties.

20km couldn't wait in tent all day for the weather change so I was working a bit but there is only so much an (even well trained) body can take.

launching will be interesting through THAT dumper from sticky sand...

Progress report 12/15/07 Saturday

2007-12-15T06:29:00.001+01:00

Weather update from Karel Vissel:
http://www.kayakweather.blogspot.com/
Sun frcst ne 4bft mrng tru eve seas 2mtr swell 1.10mtr frm n to nw

Mon mrng ne 3 to 4bft noon nw 3bft aft nw 3bft seas 1.80mtr swell 1.10 mtr frm nw

Satellite Text Messages Received from Freya:
44.35 167.47 Anita Bay. Probably head north tomorrow. Sorry about no updates on the blog - just too busy resocializing after the wilderness... :)

Progress report 12/14/07 Friday

2007-12-14T15:10:00.000+01:00

Freya is waiting for the winds to subside and plans to be back on the water in a day or two. She does have internet access. Freya mentioned that she appreciates your comments! -Greg

Satellite Text Messages Received from Freya:
Going back to Milford Sat. Maybe paddling out to Anita Bay to get going North again on Sun or latest Mon

Progress report 12/12/07 Wednesday

2007-12-12T16:21:00.000+01:00

Weather update from Karel Vissel:
http://www.kayakweather.blogspot.com/
Wed mrng ne 4bft noon ne 4ft aft ne 4 to5bft seas 3.40 swell 1.60mtr frm nw

Thu mrng s 3bft noon e 3bft aft e 3 to 4bft seas 2.70 to 1mtr swell 1.40 to 0.50mtr frm nw

Satellite Text Messages Received from Freya:
44.41 167.55 Milford Sound "Paddle-on-Inn" all inconveniences forgotten going in here :)

Never had such a quick pit stop; everything washed, dried, cleaned, fed. Thanks Fiona Lee! Can go out in the bushes again tomorrow!

Despite the OK day today and everything is ready I decided to stay in Milford as minimum Fri&Sat are bad :(( I will take a good rest...

Progress report 12/11/07 Tuesday

2007-12-11T16:06:00.001+01:00

Weather update from Karel Vissel:
http://www.kayakweather.blogspot.com/
Tues mrng e 6 to7bft noon e 4 to5bft aft e 4to 5 bft seas 3.40 to 3.90 mtr swell 2mtr frm N

Wed mrng ne 4bft noon ne 4ft aft ne 4 to5bft seas 3.40 swell 1.60mtr frm nw

Satellite Text Messages Received from Freya:
44.44 167.35 South. Sound rain all day & strong(est) headwinds all day. Seakayaker's delight :). Urgent drying pitstop in Milford tomorrow.

Progress report 12/10/07 Monday

2007-12-10T05:16:00.000+01:00

Weather update from Karel Vissel:
http://www.kayakweather.blogspot.com/
Mon mrg nw 5 bft noon ne 5 to 6bft aft ne 5 to 6bft seas 2.80 to 2.50 mtr swell 1.30 mtr frm w later n

Tues mrng e 6 to7bft noon e 4 to5bft aft e 4to 5 bft seas 3.40 to 3.90 mtr swell 2mtr frm N

Satellite Text Messages Received from Freya:
No paddle today it's blowing hard out there. Will explore the hinterland on a bushwalk and fight the psychoterror of the sandflies!

15hrs stormy rain trapped in the tent which is holding well! NZ has all kind of pleasures to offer... but could be worse. Hope to get going again tomorrow!

I had to move my tent before dawn_fully naked,in pouring rain and sandstorm...not to get anything more wet than necessary...no pictures :)

it's still pouring and blowing. slight bit less stormy. But nothing inviting yet :( in a rain lull I might go...or not. Everything is damp :(

Progress report 12/09/07 Sunday

2007-12-08T20:23:00.001+01:00

Weather update from Karel Vissel:
http://www.kayakweather.blogspot.com/
Sun mrng e 2 to3bft noon e3 bft aft e 3 to 4bft seas 2mtr swell 1 mtr frm w

Mon mrg nw 5 bft noon ne 5 to 6bft aft ne 5 to 6bft seas 2.80 to 2.50 mtr swell 1.30 mtr frm w later n

Satellite Text Messages Received from Freya:
YAAWN! 5am...but no ripple on the water (yet) stars are just about to fade...

44.49 167.24 60km easy start - hard headwind end (as usual..) but low seas. Paddled up the river into Catsey Bay lagoon, beautiful! But sandflies..

Progress report 12/08/07 Saturday

2007-12-08T14:31:00.000+01:00

Weather update from Karel Vissel:
http://www.kayakweather.blogspot.com/
Sat mrng w 3bft noon w 3 to 4 bft aft nw 3bft seas 2.60 to 1.90mtr swell 1.20mtr frm w

Sun mrng e 2 to3bft noon e3 bft aft e 3 to 4bft seas 2mtr swell 1 mtr frm w

Satellite Text Messages Received from Freya:
45.11 166.59 Neck Cove tired of battling into funneling headwinds against the tide in Thompson Sound. I didn't go out to the open sea.

Made a windy, almost sandfly-free beachday and hope for tomorrow's good forecast. Will start very early for a long day (hopefully...)

It seems like the summer arrived with sunny days but increasing winds during the day, too. We'll see how to handle the easterlies.

Progress report 12/07/07 Friday

2007-12-07T15:35:00.001+01:00

Weather update from Karel Vissel:
http://www.kayakweather.blogspot.com/
Fri mrng e 3bft noonnw 3bft aft nw 3bft seas 3.20mtr swell 1.70mtr frm W

Sat mrng w 3bft noon w 3 to 4 bft aft nw 3bft seas 2.60 to 1.90mtr swell 1.20mtr frm w

Satellite Text Messages Received from Freya:
45.18 167.02 long day:quiet morning, lunchtime headwinds, sightseeing Doubtful Sound, fighting sandflies, noisy possums in dschungle (jungle).

Out of Thompson Sound to maybe Caswell Sound today. Sandflies trap you inside the tent all the time.Good organisation important!

Progress report 12/06/07 Thursday

2007-12-06T15:29:00.000+01:00

Weather update from Karel Vissel:
http://www.kayakweather.blogspot.com/
Thu mrng S 4bft noon S 4bft aft S 4bft seas 4.10 to 3.30 mtr swell frm NW

Fri mrng e 3bft noonnw 3bft aft nw 3bft seas 3.20mtr swell 1.70mtr frm W

Satellite Text Messages Received from Freya:
45.37 166.40 Disap.Cove touristic paddle in most stunning sunny scenery. What a country! Had a freezing river bath and laundry. Happy Nikolaus!

(Note from Greg: I didn't understand Freya's last sentence so had to do some web-sleuthing. Dec 6 is St. Nikolaus day, a popular children's festival in Germany, Holland, Belgium and in some US cities with a strong German influence. I had never heard of it before. So, "Happy Nikolaus!"...)

Progress report 12/05/07 Wednesday; The Yachting life!

2007-12-05T14:45:00.000+01:00

Satellite Text Messages Received from Freya:
Woke up at 10am with lovely coffee and freshly baked bread smell :) Dave and Jenny Todd are lovely! Good luck to end up on their 11m yacht!

Relaxing rainy stormy day on the yacht. Visited the "neighbor's" DOC boat at night for an interesting chat.

Heading quietly through Acheron Passage to Breaksea Sound with some sightseeing.

Progress report 12/04/07 Tues; Rounded the Bend!

2007-12-04T14:14:00.001+01:00

Freya has passed the half-way point, has rounded the bend, and is heading north! This is a remote area and it might be some time before she finds internet access. Please keep the comments coming! Knowing that someone is rooting for you makes all the difference in the world.

Weather update from Karel Vissel:
http://www.kayakweather.blogspot.com/
tues mrng NE 3 to4bft noon Ne 4bft aft NE 4bft seas 3.80 swell 2mtr frm w

wed mrng Ne 5bft noon NE6 to 7bft aft NE 6 to 7bft seas 3.10 to 4mtr swell 2mtr frm NW

Satellite Text Messages Received from Freya:
45.46 166.31 Luncheon Cove paddled into bit of darkness staying on a yacht with a lovely couple TTYL!

40km 14hrs no suitable pee-stop at all, dangerous playground out there. Pushed myself over the limit. Relaxing weather day off tomorrow. Comfy yacht!

Progress report 12/03/07 Monday

2007-12-03T05:52:00.000+01:00

Weather update from Karel Vissel:
http://www.kayakweather.blogspot.com/

mon mrng nw 3bft noon nw 3bft aft nw 3bft seas 4 to 3.80 mtr swell 2.20 mtr frm w

tues mrng NE 3 to4bft noon Ne 4bft aft NE 4bft seas 3.80 swell 2mtr frm w

Satellite Text Messages Received from Freya:

45.60 166.28 sorry didn't feel today like battling into 4_5 headwinds in 4m seas just cut x rough West.Passage to reef sheltered Landing Bay

hope I feel strong enough to punch through Luncheon Cove tomorrow in those headwinds with probably very choppy seas on that side

Progress report 12/02/07 Sunday

2007-12-02T14:21:00.000+01:00

Weather update from Karel Vissel:
http://www.kayakweather.blogspot.com/

Sunday: fjordland mrng s 3bft noon w 4bft aft w 4bft seas 3.70 swell 3mtr frm w

Monday: mrng nw 3bft noon nw 3bft aft nw 3bft seas 4 to 3.80 mtr swell 2.20 mtr frm w

Satellite Text Messages Received from Freya:

46.02 166.31 Chalky Island 40km an almost relaxing paddle comp.to yest. through swell and backchop with less h.winds to another paradise beach

headwinds...headwinds...at least moderate and seas are ok so far...daylight until 10pm but it's nice to sometimes paddle not that long :)

Progress report 12/01/07 Saturday

2007-12-01T18:06:00.001+01:00

Weather update from Karel Vissel:
http://www.kayakweather.blogspot.com/

sat mrng nw 3 to 4bft 4bft aft sw 3bft seas 2.20 swell 1.20 frm sw

sun mrng fjordland s 3bft noon w 4bft aft w 4bft seas 3.70 swell 2 mtr frm w

Satellite Text Messages Received from Freya:

46.13 166.47 Green Islets "Guarantee you a safe harbour, but not always a smooth passage."

15hrs headwind and rough seas for 40km only...nobody said it's gonna be easy! Green Islets are paradise_with sandflies and sandfleas...

Progress report 11/30/07 Friday; Earthquake!

2007-11-30T00:17:00.000+01:00

Weather update from Karel Vissel:

http://www.kayakweather.blogspot.com/

sat mrng nw 3 to 4bft 4bft aft sw 3bft seas 2.20 swell 1.20 frm sw

Earthquake News Report:
Magnitude 5.9, Friday, November 30 2007 at 4:53 am (NZDT), 50 km north-west of Te Anau.

Satellite Text Messages Received from Freya:
My first earthquake at 4.55am!
About force 6...it's a quiet morning to cross Te Waewae Bay

46.15 167.18 60 km beach beh. Sandhill Point funny landing :) not much swell but some easy surf out I hope...

Progress Report 11/29/07 Thursday - updated by Freya 29.11.07

2007-11-29T09:00:00.000+01:00

I did another pool teaching session today! Jaqui and Tim Anderson with their son Pete, and Belinda and Stan Mulvany were joining me into the local Riverton Pool. Good I was able to do something useful on that windy, rainy day off!

It looks like there will be decent weather the next three days!! What means decent at this country in this time of the year...means headwinds around 15kn (force 3-4) "only" and swell under 3m with lighter seas on top...it really looks like I'll make it into Fjordland in these conditions.
But after those three "decent" weather days there will be another three days (minimum...) of roughest headwinds again...but I will be around the corner by then! (hopefully...)
My body feels good and ready to go.

Progress Report 11/28/07 Wednesday - updated again by Freya 28.11.07

2007-11-28T00:43:00.000+01:00

I woke up pretty "stoned" this morning, my body told me I worked out hard yesterday!
Forecast for today wasn't too bad, but Thursday wil be a rest day again anyway. An I won't have made it across Te Waewae Bay today anyway... :-(( I would have needed to land in Colac Bay for that yesterday, and even then I wonder what my body would have told me...it actually told to sleep until 7.30am, and then slowly make my decision...the decision after listening to the forecast was to keep on sleeping and to make the short jump to Colac Bay tonight with ebbing tide, to be in good staring position then for the quiet day on Friday to cross to Port Craig. Actually, the orignal plan was to get around Puysegur Point on Friday...but plans sometimes change...

I was just aslep again after breakfast, the rain was dopping nicely on my tent, as someone was calling my name outside! It were Jacqui and Tim Anderson with their son, scanning the beaches where I might have ended up last night...
They invited me to their house for a shower, internet and lunch, before I keep on going to Colac Bay tonight. How nice! Thanks to Jacqui and Tim!

........................................................................

The short trip this afternoon to Colac Bay was kind of relaxing compared to the previous paddling day, but my shoulder and forearm muscles were still cramped and hurt. So I took it slow and easy in the afternoon sun, knowing there would be Tim already waiting for me to pick me up again to host me another day and nights! They were so nice to offer to me instead of staying in Colac Bay for a whole day off on windy Thursday to pick me up again and I could spend that time with them! Very, very much appreciated! Thanks!
Dinner proved to be a delicious salmon filet with fresh veggies, and some freshly baked brownies for desert. Not too bad for a lonely, exhausted traveller!

Next, new plan is to take the low wind forecast (force 3 west...) Friday to get across Te Waewae Bay to Port Craig (50 km), probably having another day off then on Saturday before I might get to the Green Islets, maybe another day off before I could get around Puysegur...but as experienced, plans do change sometimes...

Progress Report 11/27/07 Tuesday - updated by Freya

2007-11-27T14:30:00.000+01:00

Weather update from Karel Vissel:
http://www.kayakweather.blogspot.com/

Oreti beach tues mrng w 4bft noon w 4bft aft w 4bft seas 2.50 mtr frm sw

Colac bay tues mrng w 4bft noon sw 4bft aft w 4bft seas 3.50mtr frm sw Colac bay

wed mrng w 3bft noon w 3bft aft sw 3bft seas 3mtr frmsw

Satellite Text Messages Received from Freya:

46.22 168.02 Riverton very tough day but satisfying (now...) I had enough! :-)

Update by Freya 28.11.07:
Meri and Ian Leask picked my at 5.30am, and we carried the kayak over from Bruce and Gloria's house just across the road. Thanks for storing it in the backyard and garage!

Packing went fast, and I was on the water at 6am, waving Meri, Iand and Bruce good bye. It felt good to wave some good people good bye! They were all very helpfull, thanks again!

The morning tide flushed me easily out of the Bluff harbour entrance, and I started turning west soon. The sheltered harbour became soon windy as forecasted around the rocks, and wind and swell against created lovely waters es expected...but there was still that more quiet gap between the main stream (race) and the rocks, not really an eddy, as the stream was still strongly with me. But I didn't at least had to paddle in the main tidal race area. But it felt like paddling against a wall of wind...there might have been force 4 further down at Oreti beach, but around that rocky shoreline it was funneling somehow harder. But the tide was stronger than the wind, and amazingly I made still good progress of about 6km/hr. Not too bad!

Means I arrived at my tida lunch stop Bombay Rock in time at 10.30 am. Going more into the Mokomoko Inlet showed that in that shallow area the water was breaking in wide big surflines, nothing inviting to cut across, but I was sneaking close to the rocks again and caught only one big surfwave sideways I had to brace into. The water bacame soon quiet, and I landed on the first inviting beach at low tide whith the one and only farmhouse. I guessed I might walk up and knock at the door if there would be a place for a hot cuppa to warm up a bit.

Two dogs were barking loud as I approached, I waited for about 10 min with the dogs making that noise if someone would show up somewhere, but either the people didn't care about the dogs barking or they weren't at home, what I guessed, as I didn't see any sign of life anywhere.

I decided this won't be a good place to wait for the tide turning, as the end of the sandy beach was still under the high tide line with big boulders, and I paddled a short distance to teh next remote one, which looked a bit longer sandy.

Walking up and down didn't really warm me up, I had a bit of a rest in a sheltered hey stack of the farm, but I guessed at 1 pm better get going even with the tide still against you rather than freezing here and getting bored...

Passing the surfline again close to the rocks, and then I headed directly to Howells Point, still hoping I could make it to Colac Bay tonight with the helpp of the turning tide later.

The first two hours weren't a good decision to start paddling already, as the tide across the bay was not extremely stopping me, but enough to make only about 2-2,5 km/hr...nothing really worth the effort. But I realized later it was good I started already...

Wind force 4-5 from west, swell 2,50 - 3,50 m from sw, and the tide still not with me...who wants to paddle that? At least I got warmer than waiting at the beach.

The swell was breaking frequently, and sitting on a 3m high swell with breaking crests on top is wet sometimes...I had to concentrate every second watching what the water was doing, and leant several times fully into the breaking wave not to get knocked over. I couldn't tell I was uncomfortable, actually felt just right challenged, but when I *really* had to roll...who knows.

I shouldn't have been out there, and I shouldn't have cut across. But I did. I was underestimating the weaker tide not helping me too much later in the open beach compared to the stretch from Bluff to Bombay Rock.

My main concern was the "estimated arrival time" on the GPS, which showed the 100 m marks extremely slowly passing by the first two hours, my only motivation measurement to keep on going. When the tide turned the "estimated arrival time" must get down from "midnight" to a decent arrival time at Howells Point I thought...actually I almost prayed "please, tide, help me, this is too slow otherwise to reach the other side..." and turning to Oreti Beach was not the most inviting option either for a safe landing.

Looking at the rough stuff around me I thought a kayak is much more suitable to wriggle around those waves in slow speed than any bigger motorboat with higher speed would be happy to go...in fact there was no boat to be seen anywhere. And I was wondering if there would be a rescue boat or a helicopter coming, just in case...but I'd rather paddled into the night than giving up.

Some sea birds struggled hard in the strong wind to do their circles around me as usual, one almost landed on my head!

Mental strengh and good balance to keep me going without big breaks is something I do have in such situations, and I usually feel pretty strong paddling into headwinds, but due to the windshelter of my open palm mitts I didn't open my hands that frequently on paddling as usual, as it would be just more freezing, and my right wrist and shoulder started to really hurt. Don't listen NOW to your body, you have to keep on going...I found out the water was warmer than the windchill, and sometimes just stucked my hands in for kind of a wrm up and relaxing. Or paddling with the right hand upside down gave some relief...at the end when the water became more quiet I padled for a while with my hands only to relax my muscles, that felt good! But generally it was more stiff cramped muscles than a serious upcoming joint or tendonitis problem, I knew that.

When the tide turned the push was much less than expected, but at least the 100 m marks on the GPS turned faster, and the "estimated arrival time" showed a general increasing speed, cut down to arrival at 9 pm at the end. And it was that time when I slowly headed into the quiet waters of Riverton, deciding already way out there still heading generallya to Howells Point I will have to turn *right* to Riverton instead of *left* to Colac Bay. What a good feeling when the braeking swell was slowly getting behind me...I was pretty cold by that time then, some heavy rain and hail showers didn't really add to my comfort feeling. No way of thinking about eating something or peeing on the way...

I got pushed more off by the wind from the south western part of Riverton to the eastern side of the town, guessing I will land then on the first remote beach on the east of the town. But soon when the water was more and more quiet I saw a lovely remote beach showing up close to Howells Point, and I turned left to head finally for that. Some smoking surflines to cross, but they turned out to be only 50 cm high on very shallow ground on low tide. Nothing could shock me anymore or prevent me from landing on that beach...

Happy I made it at 9 am almost in last light, I just had to haul the kayak again up to the hight tide mark on a shallow, long flat beach on low tide...where is my trolley???

A campsite on top of the narrow gravel was flat, but *very* close to the clearly to be seen wet high tide mark, but the other option to climb uphill on the grass wasn't too inviting in fading light, too. Some frequent cars passing by to the Point, whose passengers enjoyed shouting at me when they spotted me down the beach made me deciding for the narrow gravel campsite. I just had to check at 3.45 am if the water was *really* still safe enough away...

I woke up at 4.30 am, by the sound of swapping water against rocks closeby, but obviously I didn't get flooded at night as high tide was already over...no risk, no good campsite :-))

Progress Report 11/26/07 Monday - updated by Freya 28.11.07

2007-11-26T15:34:00.000+01:00

Weather update from Karel Vissel:

http://www.kayakweather.blogspot.com/

Oreti beach tues mrng w 4bft noon w 4bft aft w 4bft seas 2.50 mtr frm sw
Oreti beach wed mrng w 3bft non w 4bft aft w 4bft seas 2.40 to 2.20mtr frm sw
Colac bay tues mrng w 4bft noon sw 4bft aft w 4bft seas 3.50mtr frm sw
Colac bay wed mrng w 3bft noon w 4bft aft w 4bft seas 3.30 to 3mtr frm sw

Satellite Text Messages Received from Freya:

I'll give it a go tomorrow at 6am with the tide around to Bombay Rock, maybe with afternoon tide to Riverton or Colac Bay.

Update by Freya 28.11.07:

I had a walk yesterday afternoon around the Bluff Point yesterday when it was blowing pretty hard, and I noticed the outgoing tide was forming a rough race all up to the Lookout Point, but with a gap between the rough area nad the rocks wide enough to paddle safely.

When I was reading Paul's chapter in his book about that part, he was paddling actually against the tide, as he was crossing Bluff harbour on slack between ebbing and flooding again, and then kept on going...

I didn't see the races developing to the other direction, but from what he was writing he was working them hard "uphill"...I'd rather go with the tide then around to Bombay Rock...and that was the plan for tomorrow, starting at 6am until the tide turns at 10.30am.

In the morning I visited Meri Leask again, and she connected me to a call to John Hawkleff, an experienced fisherman of the Fjordland area, who gave me even more tips about the Fjordland area. We agreed Meri would see me at night when the latest marine forecast came in about whether I would start tomorrow or not.

Another walk today took me up the Bluff hill to the hilltop and down to Lookout Point again, then uphill again on another track. I really enjoyed those lonely walks in native forest again, it reminded me to the long tramping trips with my little boy on the South Island 7 years ago...

Meri cam at night, and she and Ian were happy to get up tomorrow morning early to pick me at 5.30am and to give me that short lift with all my gear to the beach...

I am not sleeping well when I do have to get up that early, especially when a tough paddle is planned, and was listening all night if the wind really eases down a bit as forcasted. Rain was still all night washing against my window, and I was happy to be still in a dry hut.

Non-Progress Report 24.11.07 Saturday + 25.11.07 Sunday by Freya

2007-11-25T02:56:00.000+01:00

What to tell...I basically was sitting on the computer all Saturday updating the rest of the last paddling days, and put the new sent by Karitek skegbox in my kayak, plus some minor repairs on the boat.
Sunday morning I got a lift to Invercargill again, and food-shopped for the next 3-4 weeks...I will stuff the last corner with eadible things, who knows how long I'm stuck in Fjordland...no food drops planned. Maybe I have to fish at some point :-))
Stanley Mulvany was so nice to give me a lift back, after we had a nice look around in the local museum. Thanks, Stanley!

The latest weather report seems like I can push on on Tuesday to Colac Bay (50 km) with some 3-4 headwinds, the tide is good late in the afternoon only...and to Port Craig on Wednesday (50 km, too), maybe only force 3 headwinds...
Thursday maybe a day off again, Friday and Saturday the wind changes to s se, and all days the seas from sw are pretty low - what luck!

So if all goes well as forecasted, I'm hopefully around Puysegur Point on Friday or Saturday. And then it's Fjord hopping with hopefully decent weather and seas!!!
But who can forcast the weather...Karel at least is very close to perfection! Thanks, Karel!

When I look out to Bluff harbour entrance it's creating a pretty lovely tidal race on the right tide, beautiful waves, a fun playspot if you don't want to go anywhere :-))
Besides that it's blowing like hell today, even in the "sheltered" bay here. On the way back from Invercargill we stopped for a look on the other side of the peninsula, and no whitecaps at all, just *white* sea! Good to be in a dry, civilized area...

Progress Report 11/23/07 Friday - updated by Freya 24.11.07

2007-11-23T15:02:00.000+01:00

Weather update from Karel Vissel:

http://www.kayakweather.blogspot.com/

Friday: mrng w 4bft noon nw 4 to 5bft aft w 3bft 2.60mtr frm sw

Saturday: mrng nw 4bft noon nw 5bft aft nw 4 to5bft seas 3mtr frm sw

Update by Freya 24.11.07:

Not much going on today...I made myself at home in my little hut, slept long, had a lovely shower, cared about my sandy gear, dried my tent, repaired some little issues, made a lot of phone calls top everybody.

Meri showed up at 11am, ready to drive into Invercargill. I joined her, and updated my blog alredy at least for three days.

At 3.30 pm, reporters from the Southland Times announced themselves, I think this time alerted by JKA...I did my publicity job, the 4th newspaper article on the trip! But who knows what it is good for...

And the end of the day was just relaxing, eating, sleeping early...

New updates available!

2007-11-23T01:52:00.000+01:00

So far I updated the 13.-16th, some more updates will follow the next days when I have more time for internet!
I am obviously landbound the next 3-4 days before heading out to Fjordland, not too unwelcome I must admit...although I'd rather be paddling when the weather would be ok!

Thanks guys for all nice comments on my progress! It's good to know lot's of friends are following my progress. Let's pray for some more decent weather!

Thanks to Karel for the weather and some blog updates, and thanks to Greg for updating my blog regularly!

Progress Report 11/22/07 Thursday - updated by Freya 24.11.07

2007-11-22T14:12:00.001+01:00

Happy Thanksgiving to our American Friends!

Weather update from Karel Vissel:
http://www.kayakweather.blogspot.com/
Thursday mrng: nw 4bft noon sw 1 to2bft aft ne 1 to 2bft seas 0.90to 1.50 mtr frm sw

Friday mrng: w 4bft noon nw 4 to 5bft aft w 3bft 2.60mtr frm sw

Satellite Text Messages Received from Freya:
46.36 168.21 Near Bluff. Interesting launch this morning took about half hr :). No new wreck at Waipapa Point but it looks like some days off before Fjordland

Meri Leask waved me into shore how nice! And helped me to get a hut on the campsite for the next bad weather days! time to update my blog...

Update by Freya 24.11.07:

Launching this morning proved to be the toughest so far on my own...the wind and sea was still pretty high, but supposed to be going the afternoon.

I already slept in longer than usual that morning, as the afternoon the wind and the tide for crossing Toetoes Bay were more favourable anyway.

I just felt happy the wind was keeping my tent dry over night, and just as I thought that it started to rain again...I really had to kick myself to get started in rainy, still windy conditions! At least the drysuit was dry, and putting it on inside the tent was convenient before heading out into the ugly, unfriendly morning.

Packing a wet tent in the morning into the tight bag is already no pleasure, but stuffing a wet and *sandy* tent tops it all...I was gald to do that job in my drysuit, able to strip the sand off somehow then after...

I almost needed a shovel to bury my kayak out of the sand, the wind yesterday did a good job to sandblast and cover the whole side.

As I unpacked it yesterday, sand was blowing into the hatches and cockpit, and packing it this morning *with* sand and rain was actually very unpleasant...that's a sea kayaker's life sometimes!

Whilst packing I was looking at the surf alreday, watching a seal trying to get ashore, being washed up and down quite a bit before he decided to land obviously somehwere else...hmmmm, when a seal was not happy about landing here, how could I launch easily then??

The usual dumper was the first to overcome, and some more breakers were waiting lined up behind.
But the worst was the back surge for a lonely kayaker, the wash up the beach was quite high.
So where was the best spot and time to jump in? It took me a while, some cockpits full of water, some getting lost of the boat, some getting washed up and sitting sideways, some rolling of the kayay up the beach whilst trying to position it down enough - and eventually a long rest to recover my power...

I thought the tide is coming up, and might change the angle of the beach for the breakers somehow, so just wait a bit for higher tide, and try again...I *needed* to get off that beach at some point and to to Bluff today!!!

But as it would only get better on the afternoon, tide and winds, I was not really in a hurry.

I tried again at some point, and at least managed to stay afloat whilst getting washed up and down for about three times, turned around somehow, bracing into some dumpers before eventually braeking through the first dumper!
That was the key! The other braekers were no problem, and once I was free, I gave it a big reliefed shout I made it!!! Yes, these open beaches...they change their face easily.

Actually, being out there on your own just with a partner wouldn't make it any easier for the last one...but it will be interesting to watch Justine's video of that kind of launching while she is sitting safely launched out there waiting for Barry to punch through the launch on his own :-)) - or the other way round???
Having a support team on the beach to launch the last one makes it way less of a problem...but actually less exciting and less of a learning process, too!

And then the skeg again...launching rope attached as usual, but by no means I could pull it out...I fumbled around with the paddle on the rope to get a better angle to pull it out, but no chance...after a while i tried again, pulled as hard I ever could and guessed, if the loop breaks, I can't help then...but it came off eventually and my already planned wet exit behind Waipapa Point to release it was luckily not necessary.

Seas were still rough approaching Waipapa Point, but with a good eye for the offshore reef breakers I made it safely through that notoriuos spot. I guess the tourists out there on the dry point hoped for another exciting crash...

I took a bearing from the GPS across Toetoes Bay, as the sky was grey, it was raining, and nothing of Bluff or the offshore islands was to be seen where I wanted to go.
At least the wind was dropping as forecasted, but the waves were pushing me into the bay that much I had to correct my course quite often. Good to have the GPS! And it told me my speed was increasing, too, as the tide turned in my favour, actually that much I would be reaching Bluff two hours before the tide was turning again to get me safely into the harbour!
I took my time, rested quite often, still making 3km/hr at the last hour without doing anything! Seas were fully quiet at the end, a relaxing final approach to Bluff.

The only rock-free little beach in Bluff was right before the huge big white tanks before the wharf, and at almost low tide there was still quite a bit of a stream going out the harbour! I ferryglided across the main stream, before I sneaked up close to the rocks approaching that little beach through the floating kelp and reefs.

I saw a lady waving and shouting at me at the harbour entrance, and guessed this must be Ainsli Lamb already, a contact adress Paul gave me to send a parcel down to Bluff.
But no! It was Meri Leask, "Good as Gold Meri" from Bluff Fishermen Radio! She knew already I was coming from the Heberley's in Tory Channel, and from that chap bringing me water up to my tent at Tautuku Bay!
Out of her window she overlooked the whole harbour, saw me coming in, and although I was too shy to contact her already on the VHF channel 61, she welcomed me already on the beach! Thanks Meri, I felt already in good hands even before heading out to Fjordland, monitored by all fishermen around via your radio!

I told her I was actually expecting Ainsli with the parcel, and after a few phone calls she came down to Bluff with another lady to bring it to me. Thanks, Ainsli!

After checking the forecast for the next days it was clear I would have to stay some days in Bluff, and I was happy Meri helped me to find a little hut on the campsite for the next days.
But before driving out there, I was invited for a cuppa in her famous kitchen radio office, listening to her evening sched calls to all boats around in the area! She does a very important job for the safety of all boaters, especially in the remote Fjordland area. She knows exactly where everybody is for the night, and is the coordination center if a mayday call comes in.
She'll monitor my progress in Fjordland, too, and even if my own little VHF won't reach her in all corners of Fjordland, the VHF contact via a passing fishing boat would be possible to obtain.
My boat was stored at Bruce and Gloria's house right across the road, and I "made camp" in my own little hut then for the next days, shower, heater and laundry included...

Progress Report 11/21/07 Wednesday - updated by Freya 24.11.07

2007-11-21T15:45:00.000+01:00

Weather update from Karel Vissel:
http://www.kayakweather.blogspot.com/
Wednesday morning: nw 3to4bft noon nw 3bft aft w 4 to5bft seas 1.10to 0.70mtr frm s to sw

Thursday morning: nw 4bft noon sw 1 to2bft aft ne 1 to 2bft seas 0.90to 1.50 mtr frm sw

Satellite Text Messages Received from Freya:
46.39 168.54 Lake Brunton 4hrs headwind fight then watched plenty of huge fat sealions at Waipapa Point. Hope for windbreak tomorrow for Bluff.

My tent - my castle and sand and sand-fly free zone...almost :)
Important piece of gear: earplugs to keep the roaring surf off my dreams...

4 weeks, 20 paddling days, 8 weather days, 1035 km, 51.75 km daily average, ca.1250 km left, 17 tent nights, 3 Pavlovas! :))

Update by Freya 24.11.07:

The day's forecast were some headwinds, but low seas, and I hoped to make still good enough progress for Bluff. In case I won't nmake it the low swell didn't scare me too much to land at the open Brunton Beach then somewhere, right before the crossing of Toetoes's Bay. next day's forecast showed a wind gap to finish off to Bluu then.

And it came as I didn't hope: the headwinds were fun to paddle against for a while, but after two hours of battling I took already a short break at a lovely sheltered beach right before Black Point. I should have gone at least to that one yesterday! But who knew at that time...

Another two hours of headwind play, and i was looking for a reasonable spot to stop at Brunton Beach.

Where the site of lake Brunton was, the dunes were low enough for a probably good campsite, and the surf wasn't too much at that corner, too. Still enough for a wet brace into the last dumper...

It was 11 am only, and I couldn't tell I was in the mood for stopping already, despite of the slow hard working progress into the headwinds...but for what's it worth, tomorrow seemed to be a wind break, long enought to make it to Bluff.

After tomorrow, the weather was supposed to change for the worse anyway for longer, so I *had* to make the rest tomorrow, if I wouldn't want to be stuck in the bushes for longer time rather than being safe and dry in civilization...and to update blog, food and kit for the next remote leg into Fjordland.

I relaxed laying against my boat for a while, still not willing to put up camp and to take off the drysuit, and fell into a quick nap...I awoke from being sandblasted by the increasing wind...a look on the water showed it was time to make camp.

Wandering along the lakesite showed a good shelter way down there, but I was too lazy to carry all the gear down...I put up tent right behind the first dune shelter on the lakesite, still a bit in the wind, good against sandflies...

A first afternoon walk took me east again, and climbing up a high, steep sanddune I was surprised to see it was occupied already - a fat sea lion already preferred the shelter way up there, too! He didn't notice me, and I took lots of pictures. Little did I know that there were many more to picture down the beach...

After a quick lunch I walked up the beach the other way, towards Waiapap Point. And one fat blubber pile of sea lion after the other was resting in the afternoon sun on the beach, lazy enough to stay where they were, even when they started to open their eyes and noticed me. I think I took good pitures!

At Waipapa Point, the big long reef was easy visible at low tide, and the compulsary bunch of tourist vans, too...just stay wide tomorrow, I thought, and you won't end up like the ship wreck 100 years ago...

Progress Report 11/20/07 Tuesday - updated by Freya 24.11.07

2007-11-20T14:41:00.000+01:00

Freya has rounded the bend and is Heading West!

Weather update from Karel Vissel:
http://www.kayakweather.blogspot.com/
Tues mrng nw 3bft noon w 2 to3bft aft sw 2 to3bft seas 2.60mtr frm s
Wed mrng w 4bft noon nw 4bft aft nw 4 to5bft seas 2 to 0.90mtr frm s to sw

Satellite Text Message Received from Freya:
46.39 169.06 Purpoise Bay campsite with shower and laundry, not too bad! Lovely day with dolphins and light wind. Would have loved to kept on going!

Update by Freya 24.11.07:

Again dragging of the kayak down to the low water line...and the trick with the covered cockpit and just walking through the shallow, low surf until you could squeeze your butt into the cockpit without catching a wave was just working fine. But don't even think about the already checked to be loose skeg was coming out on it's own as supposed then...shaking the whole boat violently whilst sitting wasn't getting it out either, so I dared to land besides a sheltered reef rock, jumped out again, puleld the skeg loose and could keep on going west.

It was a lovely sunny day, few winds, and the 33 km to Purpoise Bay, the next sheltered approved landing spot, were just astern already at 2 pm.

I was heavily tempted to keep on going, at least another 20 km just before Waipapa Point...

I assumed landing in the shelter of the first reef there would be ok, but it was still a bit of a good swell going...and open beaches are always "interesting" in those conditions...

Going even further into Toetoes Bay, still open beaches, was not my idea of going straight from point to point, and crossing over to Bluff was too long for that day.

So the only reasonable option again was to pull into that sheltered bay, enjoying the rest of the day, and the campsite was actually not too unwelcome for a hot shower and some laundry.

I got a ride with a couple in a sports car to Waikawa, where there was internet at the museum. Just couldn't ask them NOT to smoke whilest driving...beeeaaahhh!

I had too many e-mails to answer for the short hour of computer time, so updating my blog had to wait until Bluff.

A longer call to Paul about Bluff's approaching conditions finished the day.

Progress Report 11/19/07 Monday - updated by Freya 24.11.07

2007-11-19T16:31:00.000+01:00

Weather update from Karel Vissel:

http://www.kayakweather.blogspot.com/
Monday: mrng ne 3bft noon e 3bft aft e 3bft seas mrng 4.70 aft 4.30mtr frm sw

Tuesday: mrng nw 3bft noon w 2 to3bft aft sw 2 to3bft seas 2.60mtr frm s

Satellite Text Messages Received from Freya:

46.36 169.26 Tautuku Bay 40km I could get used to the relaxing half day paddles dictated by sheltered landing & tide :) actually enough swell for today..HUGE off Long Point!

Update by Freya 24.11.07:

The early morning start and paddle through the Nuggets was not watched by anyone, touristst were still asleep on their warm and dry accomodations...

The wind forecast was nice, but BIG swells should come up for that day...heading out of the sheltered bay before the Nuggets no swell appeared at all. And even going through the gap I spotted the day before was a bit of a thrill regarding Paul's issue there, but it proved to be no problem, just some streamy water and I was scared to death once as a sea lion was barking out loud somewhere unexpectedly... :-))

But behind the Nuggets, going off the sheltered bay, the swell became more and more visible and to be felt, the backchop off White Head was already entertaining, but approaching Long Point topped my HUGE swell experience so far...

It is not really dangerous or likely to capsize in BIG swells only, a good sense of balance and NOT to get seasick is just required - and I was luckily able to feel alright with both.

Taking pics of the swell breaking on the point was not easy, balancewise first, but timing it right to be UP when a huge breaker hits the rocks and not DOWN in the wave trough proved to be tricky...

I was just happy not to feel any seasickness coming up, as I had to deal with that already sometimes in Newfoundland and Iceland...maybe my body told me "no time for that, you are alone out here and cant't feed the fishes right now and get weak..." or so...

Behing Long Point the backchop created some choppy surf for a long time, even some bracing was necessary! I was just happy I took my food and pee braek just *before* the point...

But the water became soon more quiet approaching Tautuku Bay, and although I covered only another half day paddle with 40 km and was thinking to skip that bay and pushing on to Purpoise Bay I must admit I had enough swell for that day...

Tautuku Bay at low tide was a long pull up of the boat again, my hull becomes thinner and thinner from the constant sand abrasion :-)) - and the extra excersise is not too much appreciated.

I put up my tent opposite to the wee houses, as I didn't feel too much like camping between holiday huts and meeting people that day.

Anyway, the chap driving up to my dune camp to just bring me some fresh water was well appreciated! It proved to be a fisherman who knew already about my trip from other fishermen...

I opened my tent not to be unpolite whilst the brief conversation, but the sandflies saw that as an invitation to get inside, too...but they are slow enough to get caught! :-)

Just all those dead bodies inside the tent then...

Progess Report 11/18/07 Sunday - updated by Freya 24.11.07

2007-11-18T05:52:00.000+01:00

Weather update from Karel Vissel:

http://www.kayakweather.blogspot.com/
Sunday: mrng nw 4bft noon sw 4 to 5bft aft sw 4bft seas mrng 1.4 aft 2.6mtr from s

Monday: mrng ne 3bft noon e 3bft aft e 3bft seas mrng 4.70 aft 4.30mtr frm sw

Satellite Text Messages received from Freya:
46.26 169.47 Nugget Point 35km against stream and wind next legs are dictated by possible landings I'll go watch the seals now from above

Update by Freya 24.11.07:

The launch from Crystalls Beach was ok, even with some dumpers...yes, Greg, I soon learnt how to deal with the dumpers :-)) - either stay out like at Fisherman's Point/ Birdling's Flat or get wet :-))

That day to Nugget Point was a half day's paddle again, 35 km only, but for that stretch of coastline it proved to be more wise to get in the approved safe landing spots rather than seeking new, probably less sheltered ones, which might not even exist...

I paddled into the last sandy beach before Nuggets Point, and found the only place to put up a tent, right in front of the penguin sign...but still not too close to the road. And the penguins were not expected to come in at that time of the year on that beach.

After getting settled with the tent and gear I walked up to the Nuggets Point, where 7 years ago I was driving up in a van with my 4-year old boy...this time the masses of tourist vans were just annoying, and I preferred to walk rather that to hitch a ride up and down...how the points of views change! Being in my own van next time again, I'll look out for lonely travellers without car... :-))

The view from the Nuggets was amazing as last time, and with my binoculars I could watch the marine mammal's life down there pretty close.

I remembered Paul's write up about his capsize going through the Nuggets 30 years ago, and tried to find the spot where it has happened.

The swell was pretty low that day, so in the middle of the Nuggets to the left of the rock with the arch there seemed to be a gap big enough to pass safely next day, if conditions would stay the same...a motorboat took the same pass through.

It started to rain a bit, and all (German...) tourists were hurrying back to their vans...my only concern was I stupidly left my fleece underwear outside my tent to dry, so I hurried walking downhill back, too :-)) - and drying the underwear in a tent is only be done by *wearing* it for a while, not really a pleasure. But if you want dry underwear next day...

Progress Report 11/17/07 Saturday - updated by Freya 24.11.07

2007-11-17T06:54:00.000+01:00

Weather update from Karel Vissel:

http://www.kayakweather.blogspot.com/
Saturday: mrng nw 3bft noon e 2 to 3bft aft e 3bft seas 2.20 to 1.90mtr frm

Sunday: mrng nw 4bft noon sw 4 to 5bft aft sw 4bft seas mrng 1.40 aft 2.60mtr frm s

Satellite Text Message Received from Freya:

46.12 170.03 Toko Mouth 55km decided to go in rather on a clean but surfy beach than on unknown terrain further downwind enjoy early camp on my own

Update by Freya 24.11.07:

I did launch that morning on Smailles beach in the broken surf behind Bird Island, as carrying the boat to the left corner of the beach where I came in was a bit of distance...oh, I skipped about 300 m of paddling!!! Unforgivable...

Thanks Rob and Stella to get up with me that early I could be on the water at 7am, and Mark couldn't help but joining the early morning launch, too...I think it's an honor people enjoy getting uop that early just to see me off!

My goal for the day was an ambitious 85 km down to the Nuggets, as a following wind from lunchtime on was predicted, but the headwind fiirst and the quite rough stuff later made it impossible to reach the Nuggets before darkness. Just one hr was missing...that leg had to be spilt in two days then!

So I had to decide where to go in, the proved safe landing at the Taeiri river mouth was already astern. The Toko River mouth appealed on the map, and the whole stretch of Crystalls Beach before it was clean, just a bit steep and surfy and dumpy...

The river mouth itself had some reefs, and as far as I could see further south the next beach looked decorated with reefs, too (actually it was not, but I didn't know...) the water bacame more and more rough, and I decided to go in NOW, just before the river mouth wee village.

A bit of a dumping surf at the end to brace in, but I could pass the outer breaking line of surf upright. I was quite happy to be in safely, but a sandy, but free of reefs, even steep beach with some surf doesn't scare me that much as those ugly cobblestone stuff between Christchurch and Oamaru.

I had to climb a bit up the dunes to find a lovely spot for the night, just the sandflies enjoyed first time to bother me quite a bit. I learnt NOT to go out of the tent with bare legs or feet, and stripping the naked butt for a pee is not much of a pleasure :-)) - so I'd rather used my device I use sitting in my kayak for that pupose...and go where the most wind is blowing! :-))

I hauled the kayak up the dunes, as the high tide mark came pretty close to the high edge. For a good night's sleep without worries I thought it's well worth the effort!

Progress Report 16/11/07 Friday - updated by Freya 23.11.07

2007-11-16T14:43:00.000+01:00

Weather update from Karel Vissel:
http://www.kayakweather.blogspot.com/
Friday: mrng nw2bft noon s 2bft aft e 1bft seas 2.80mtr frm e to se

Saturday: mrng nw 3bft noon e 2 to 3bft aft e 3bft seas 2.20 to 1.90mtr frm s

Satellite Text Messages Received from Freya:
Smailles Beach 50km big swell east of Otago Peninsula landing on surfbeach sneaking in close to rocks plenty dolphins!!!

Updated by Freya 23.11.07:

Paul said goodbye that morning, as I would be expected in Dunedin by Rob Tipa, another paddler of the KASK network. Thanks Paul, for three interesting and helpful days!

Paul proved to be my main New Zealand contact, as he proved to be really helpful with contacts, phone support, publicity, local advices and a close eye on the trip over all. I hope to host him a bit in Europe next year!

Cutting across to the Otago Peninsula harbour entrance I had a big school of dolphins playing with me for more than 15 min! All close to the kayak, almost jumping over the bow! But don't even guess of beeing fast enough for good pictures...maybe there are some when I take my tim eto download them. Justine, your job for the video camera! I told the dolphins to be back for you then...

I'd rather kept on paddling to stay interesting for the playful mammals, expecting they appreciate more a moving paddle to play with than a just floating boat', just enjoying the moment...

Some huge Albatros from the Dunedin colony enjoyed their circles around the kayak, almost touching the waterline with their wings. I wonder why they (and other birds, too...) think a kayak is a great spot to fly around in circles for minutes...

Off th east side of the Otago Peninsua the swell felt big, reflecting from the steep cliffs. But no worries...I was more worried about the landing on the open surf at Smailles Beach south of the island, only broken a bit by Bird Island. Just next to St. Kilda beach, NZ most popular surf beach...

Rob Tipa and Mark Robertson were expecting me there, and Mark checked that morning already how the surf was looking like on that beach. He said "with your experience...there are gaps to land safely..." (whose surf experience???), so I trusted his judgement in my skills.

Coming around the corner to the beach, the usual procedure of PFD, hood and helmet on, legs locked in, and with several looks back I managed to surf in without being knocked over, sneaking in close to the rocks of the side of the beach.

I saw Rob and mark running from the middle of the beach towards me, as they obviously saw another safe route of unbroken waves just behind Bird's Island and expected me there.

The only issue about my landing spot was the longer distance of carrying the kayak and luggage to the car, maybe we should have had VHF contact before landing! My cell was ringing sometimes, but no call was possible.

Anyway, it took only two minutes and the next reporter from the Dunedin paper were on the beach for pictures and interview. Paul's and Rob's job again...but Ididn't mind. At least it was not after 22hrs of paddling and 1 hrs of sleep when the reporter showed up in Iceland...

Rob's and Mark's hospitality was perfect, they briefly dropped me at a supermarket to shop for teh next leg, and Rob's wife Stella cooked a delicious venison dinner.

I was just too tired to update anything on my blog on his computer...and actually I thought having that short time together with lovely hosts it's just unpolite to sit on the computer all night.

Thanks for hosting me that night!

Mark enjoyed to put me in his self-built SOF for a picture, I'll post one soon! Nice boat! I like the rubber-like hull material, black for sure...

Progress Report 11/15/07 Thursday - updated by Freay 23.11.07

2007-11-15T15:33:00.000+01:00

Gone kayak'n.... I'm away for a few days kayak camping at Cumberland Island, Georgia. Karel will update Freya's blog in my absence. -- Greg Stamer.

Weather update from Karel Vissel:
http://www.kayakweather.blogspot.com/
Thu mrng w 2bft noon ne 3 to4bft aft ne 3bft seas 2.10mtr frm s to se
Fri mrng nw2bft noon s 2bft aft e 1bft seas 2.80mtr frm e to se

Satellite Text Messages Received from Freya:
45.36 170.41 Waikouaiti 85km 13hrs grey drizzly chilly day but good paddle

Update by Freya 23.11.07:

Weather looked inviting this morning, calm, but grey and drizzly. Paul helped me launching again, sliding downhill in a seal launch that extreme steep gravel into moderate dumpers is actually not that tough.

Paul enjoyed some more bookhunts during the day, heading south towards Moeraki.

We agreed he will look for me first at the Oamaru harbour, but I knew already I won't stop there if paddling was good...and it was good and easy, after a day's rest anyway.

I gave him the first call on the cellphone I won't come in for lunch, ok, next meeting point would be Moeraki beach, 50km overall down south.

The weather bacame not really attractive for a land mammal, with rain and dark sky, but for me as a mutated marine mammal I was quite happy out there, still following winds and moderate seas.

Paul obviously felt more like a land mammal and booked already another hut at Moeraki at 3pm, obviously convinced I would be stopping there.

I cut across the bays as usual, just feeling sorry I would miss another look on the famous Moeraki boulders on the beach in that way...happy with good progress that day!

On the second call to Paul it sounded already he didn't feel too happy with me wanting to push on to Shag Point rather than stopping at Moeraki, but he thought we could have easily been driven back to Moeraki from there...

On my third call at at 5.30pm I asked him for the last delay on the night's meeting, as paddling with 7-8 km/h felt just too good...Cornish Head 3hrs south sounded ok for him then.

Passing Shag Point through the reefs proved again the saying "If in doubt - stay out", as I didn't follow and caught a big wave washed sideways towards the next rocks...pooohhhh! But bracing successfully, just learnt something again...

I eventually paddled around the corner of Cornish head at 8.30pm, already seeing Paul's car with the orange Nordkapp on the roof on the beach.

I was thinking about giving him a fourth call just to tease him, to ask if he would agree if I would like to push on to Dunedin that night..."Then you would have camped on your own, girl!" was the understandable answer...as he lost already 40 dollars on that early booked hut we didn't use then...sorry about that! But who was always pushing on, too, when conditions were good 30 year ago??

85 km for that day was actually enough, as night came in soon, no Icelandic 24hrs of daylight!

Another delicious couscous meal prepared on the back of his car, and a quiet remote dune tent site to sleep.

Progress Report 11/14/07 Wednesday - update dy Freay 23.11.07

2007-11-14T15:08:00.000+01:00

Weather update from Karel Vissel:
http://www.kayakweather.blogspot.com/
Thu mrng w 2bft noon ne 3 to4bft aft ne 3bft seas 2.10mtr frm s to se
Fri mrng sw 4bft non sw 3bft aft sw 2 to3bft seas 2.80mtr frm e to se

Satellite Text Message Received from Freya:
No paddle today :( non- inviting headwinds. Spent all day in Oamaru looking around. Sounds ok tomorrow to keep on going south.

Update by Freya 23.11.07:
Forecast said stronger winds, but it's always worth a look out to the sea...I jumped in my drysuit, ready to push on for at least a while, but what we saw out there was not really inviting...back to plan B, a day off paddling!
Paul and I were driving out to Oamaru then, as he was interested to look into various antique bookshops on the hunt for old books he was interested in.
Oamaru enjoys to be a "Victorian"town, with a historic city with lots of antique shops, theatres and some more tourist traps. But nice to look around for a while, too. In a shop he got to talk with a lady about what we were doing, and she couldn't help but calling the local paper for a story...
A walk out around the Oamaru headland where a "pinguin viewing" amphitheathere was put up for tourists watching the little bue pinguins coming In at night completed the day off.
The same convenient hut for the night - I think I'm getting spoilt!

Progress Report 11/13/07 Tuesday - update by Freya 14.11.07 and 23.11.07

2007-11-13T14:33:00.000+01:00

Weather update from Karel Vissel:
http://www.kayakweather.blogspot.com/
Tuesday mrng nw 3bft noon w 3bft aft s3bft seas 0.60 to 1.40mtr from se
Wed mrng sw 4bft noon sw 4 to 5bft aft sw 4bft seas 1.60mtr from se

Satellite Text Message Received from Freya:
44.48 171.10 Morven. Got stranded in the bush again after 18km s wind came with 5 to 6 at 9.32h :( I walked out to the road to meet Paul :)

I paddled another 18km south up to the Waitaki River mouth. I had a nice dinner with Paul.

Update by Freya 14.11.07:
I got up early again, Paul's latest marine forcast and Karel's update by the morning was for southerlies coming in at noon already, and probably stronger than I would like it....

Ok, getting up early and going as far as possible I guessed, winds and seas looked still easy that morning.

Launching was easy, too, but my skeg rope deploying system failed the first time, as the little loop on the skeg broke and the skeg stayed stuck...

Seas were calm, and I'd rather climbed out on the stern again as being successful once (and failed another time...) than landing on that beach again! But I couldn't reach it to pull it out, it was stuck deep inside the skeg box...I slid forward again to reach my knife out of a cockpit bag, tried again to fumble around without slicing into my drysuit, but I couldn't find the tiny cobble which caused the problem...

Ok, landig again... somehow I got the boat up enough to roll it on it's side, getting the repair bag out for an new loop, scratched the cobble out with my knife and to launch again with success this time.

7.15 am for the second start of the morning, still early enough for Omaru harbour, I thought...
9.32 am, and from one minute to the next it was there, the front with southerly winds, which was already announcing himself an hour ago with some dark clouds to the south. I kept on pushing a bit, but my GPS told me I was down to 2-3 km/h, pointless for the effort I put in, and I won't make the 50 km to Omaru anyway.

So just land again after about 18 km, in the middle of nowhere again...

I just hoped I picked a good spot for road access to meet Paul somehwere around 2 pm, as I couldn't see any hinterland behind the steep beach. Landing was rough, but ok, and maybe after 2 hrs of paddling only I was still strong enough to pull the boat up the steep beach, as it worked better than the previous night.

For sure I had to unload it fully again, as there were two more steep steps waiting to be pulled up until I eventually felt safe and dry enough high on top of the gravel bar.

I would have put up tent right there again if I would just be by myself for that day, but Paul was announced to call me from 2 pm on, to make sure we'll meet somewhere. He hasn't got a VHF or GPS, just a (luckily working there) cell phone...hey, modern expedition times are up! :-)))

I walked out to the main road, and with the help of a farmworker's lift I was sitting besides the A1 at about 11 am, still quite early for a rendevouz. Ok, time to work on my fingernails a bit and to type some messages on the Satphone ;-))
Rain came up, and I preferred rather walking up the road towards Timaru for a meeting than to get cold.

At least I was still in my Kokatat drysuit and had my Kokatat Gore-Tex overcag on, so well protected! But it must have been a funny figure walking along the noisy main road without asking anyone for a lift...just for fun...
Eventually it was 2pm and Paul's car turned up, most appreciated as it became a bit chilly on the the long run.

...............................................................................

Update by Freya 23.11.07

We managed to find the little dirt road where I came off the beach, and had a nice lunch at Paul's car, with a convenient two flame camp stove in use. Car camping has advantages...
The local farmer drove by on his 4-wheeler and probably was wondering what we were doing out there, almost on his meadow...
After two hrs the wind seemed to be down enough I could start at 4.30 pm for another two or three hrs paddle. We agreed to meet again at the Waitaki River mouth.
Launching went well, a nice push is always appreciated!

Approaching the big river mouth, the water bacame pretty racy at times, and I kep a good eye out for Paul. But only three fishermen catching whitebait were busy out there, no orange jacket to be seen indicating the end of the day!

Well, cell phone contact was luckily available, and Paul told me he was waiting about 1 mile down the coast where he found good road access. He would have a blue tarp put up and would be good visible.

Wind freshened up again, and the last 1/2 hour was a good workout to reach teh blue tarp and orange jacket spot somewhere out there on the long gravel bar...good feeling whith a support crew! At least for some luxury days...actually I guessed Paul wanted to get on the water with me at some point as he brough kayak and all kit, but understandable he wasn't too much attracted to paddle this stretch of coastline...

He obviously enjoyed acting rather as a support crew he was lucky to have himself on most of his trips. Besides some days with Bevan Walker he admitted he was never on this side of the trip, so very much appreciated he was there!

For landing in strong wind and sidewaves up the steep gravel beach I carefully watched his signs from which side to approach and I understood his signs he wanted me in diagonal with the waves...and I readily got my legs out of the boat to jump out as soon as possible paddling carefully in after a big wave like I was successfull on my own the last days.

But on catching someone else his idea was I should have paddled up the beach full speed on the back of a big breaker, to get up as high as possible, obviously right, but somehow I was too scared to time it wrong and rather to dig my nose into the steep gavel and pitchpole as I did in Iceland once...so after jumping out on the waterside of the kayak a big dumper washed the boat onto Paul, knocked him over and the heavy barge was sitting right on his leg...it didn't look too good, but luckily nothing was broken, he just wasn't too happy about water in his gum boots...well, things happen on big trips like that with unexperienced kayakers...(me!)

But I did my job on drying his only pair of socks later with a hair dryer in the little campside hut he was so nice to book...a hot shower, laundry and dry place to stay is always appreciated after some days in the bushes! And it was pouring rain all night long...

We checked what each of us brought for food and put together a delicious meal, again convenently prepared in a big pan on a two flame stove...

Progress Report 11/12/07 Monday - updated by Freya 14.11.07

2007-11-12T16:13:00.000+01:00

Fortunately Freya had a less eventful day than yesterday!

A good reference for tracking the date/time in NZ, to better follow Freya's trip, is http://www.timeanddate.com/worldclock/city.html?n=951 .
--Greg

Weather Update from Karel Vissel:
http://www.kayakweather.blogspot.com/
mon mrng nw 4bft noon nw 3bft aft nw 3bft seas 0.60mtr frm se
Tues mrng nw 3bft noon w 3bft aft s3bft seas 0.60 to 1.40mtr frm se

Satellite Text Messages Received from Freya:
Nov 12, 2007 10:26 AM
44.39 171.09 12,5h 85km quiet long day

Update by Freya 14.11.07:

I got up at 6 am, raedy to launch at 7.30 am...but I had to knock up the cliffs on Sandy's van door to say good bye! Early morning bird wants to fly a long way...

Anyway, they came down both within two minutes, and Sandy's wife took some video footage again.

An easy launch on the quiet morning, and I said to myself you are not going to lad until it's getting dark today! I will be a landing somewhere in the nowhere land's beach, nothing to hide or to go in after about 80 km I planned to go that day.

I expected that to be the last landing and launching on the steep gravel stuff, as I hoped to make it to Omaru harbour the next day then, but oh no...no way...

Paddling past Timaru, there was a disgusting freezing works outlet, pouring like a waterfall a bloody greasy animal's rest brew out of a huge hose sticking on poles wide out into the sea...I never smelled such a disgusting dead body's smell, for a whole 1/2 hr south, and the surface was covered with floating grease...that kind of pollution in these days!!! But who cares about those occasional 6 paddlers who go along that beach within the last 30 years...I just felt I need to wash paddle and boat after going through, and don't touch the water, no drips on paddling through!...

It turned 8pm, and 80 km were done, so I guessed the last almost 1 hr of daylight will be nice to put up camp! The swell was down, and it seemed like an easy landing.

I sticked my feet out of the cockpit, sat there for a while until I paddled in on the back of a wave.

Jumping out was fast, safe and easy then, but the beach turned out to be a bloody bastard of being steep!!! Mor than 45 degrees, loose gravel only, and the first step about 2,50 m high above water level! No chance to get the loaded kayak up there on my own! Additionally for sure the cockpit filled with water on the next wave, and I had to figure something to get my boat out of the rolling waves up on terra firma again.

Rolling the boat on it's side to get the water out was working, but it slid down again a bit, including myself...bugger...another effort, and the whole boat was sliding out of my hands! I managed to grab it again, and the same game, pulling as hard as possible, rolling it on the side to get the cockpit empty, but still no chance to pull the heavy guy up...

On a short lull I found a use for the towbelt the first time I was paddling solo (good I wore it!), I clipped the boat to the belt and managed in a short lull to keep the boat where it was and to climb at least on the next gravel step. Another hard pull got it up a bit more, at least out of the reach of the most dumpers. But still it was pointing bow to the sky, and stern to the hell...I had to unload some stuff! I could reach the front hatch from my step on top, and just hoped it wont slide again once I unloded the front hatch and possibly it will be filled with water, too...

One bag flew up the beach, the next, and some more, until the whole front hatch was empty and all gear spread out evenly on top of the gravel step. Another pull, it came up a bit higher and stayed where it got pulled...

Now I could reach into the cockpit...one, two, three fresh water bags flew uphill, too, not caring if they would burst on the crash landing. My precious North Water under deck bag, cockpit bags and the thermos went the same way, and that was it I could reach from the top step.

But it was light enough now for a final pull uphill! Sliding it over the somehow soft, but still sharp cobblestone beach edge made an ugly crackling sound on the hull, but I couldn't help...it was safe! And I was done for the night, 80 km of paddling and such a lovely additional workout! At least the night was dry and although the sun was gone I just stripped fully in the middle of nowhere, enjoying to spread out all gear on clean cobbles to dry I didn't bother to use tent pegs on my free standing Hilleberg Allak tent, just jumped in and started my nigh't camp routine.

I was in cell phone range again, and could give JKA and Paul a call about the situation. John told me the first time about my scary launch the previous day, and that he posted some pics to Greg to spice up my blog a bit...thanks, guys, for all the supporting comments!

Paul envisioned to come out to me from the West Coast for some 7 days and to maybe do a bit of paddling together! Most appreciated for some company and learning opportunities!

I slept well that night, felt safe in the midlle of nowhere and high above the haunting dumpers, put my earplugs in and got a good deserved rest.

Progress Report 11/11/07 Sunday - update by Freya 14.11.07

2007-11-11T15:27:00.000+01:00

Update: I received an additional image from John Kirk-Anderson of Freya's launch, which I have included - Greg.

Weather Update from Karel Vissel:
http://www.kayakweather.blogspot.com/
mon mrng nw 4bft noon nw 3bft aft nw 3bft seas 0.60mtr frm se
Tues mrng nw 3bft noon w 3bft aft s3bft seas 0.60 to 1.40mtr frm se

Message from Martin:
I helped Freya launch today from Taumutu about 30 km south west of Banks Peninsula into 3m high dumpers, she launched with total commitment into extremely unforgiving waves in what would rate as the gutsiest piece of paddling I have seen that left us shaking and the onlookers cheering.

Satellite Text Messages Received from Freya:
Nov 11, 2007 10:23 AM
44.06 171.41 Long Beach 62km late start with push through big surf good paddle and landing Sandy Ferguson is here I'll go past Timaru tomorrow.

Will try to pass the 140km to Oamaru harbour in 2 days...

Update by Freya Wednesday 14.11.07:

The weather for Sunday showed easy winds, but most important the se swell was supposed to go down the day, starting about 1,80 m to about 1,20 m at night.

John and Mary got up early with me at 5 am, meeting Martin and Fiona at a junction on the way up to Fisherman's Point at 6.30 am. I appreciate all those people getting up that early to see me being off (and to help me launching, actually...)!

Arriving at the beach, everybody guessed hmmmmm, is that the water you want to get through this morning? Still crushing dumpers, but there *were* occasionally lulls in between...every 15 min or so...if you do it wrong and get washed back into the surge you and your boat won't be having much of the original shape...

We were all watching, discussing, watching and thinking if it will be worth a try and the risk, actually. i was sure i won't have tried on my own at all. The water behing the "barrier" looked ok and easy, if there won't be that launch...and actually a landing, too, at the end of the day!

I decided to get at least the gear and kayak down and to pack. Something to keep me busy while everybody else was still watching and thinking and discussing...

We got paul on the phone, and listened what he was thinking about it, too. But at the end it was really up to *me* to say "yes, I'll do it"... everybody said I would be welcome to stay another night, Monday was supposed to be really down with the swell.

John said eventually he would do it (but he didn't... :-)) )...and was dressed already in shorts, PFD, helmet and tow belt...and he had to meet a student at 10am...and Paul organized Sandy Ferguson to meet me at the end of the day to give me a catch if necessary...so NOW or not that day at all and maybe tomorrow if I'd stay on the beach on my own without help...

There was a good chance with a good push to do it. But if things went wrong and you get braoched sideways and rolled up the beach again...only one try to *not* get it wrong.

I felt like before an exciting skydive in former times, fully aware of the risk, but quiet and fully concentrated, and relying on the good job of the "launchers"...and then the GO!

John advised me to give it a good scream, but I guessed a mouth full of water was the least I would need by then :-)) So just paddle from zero to full speed, until you feel clear...

One wave crashed above me (see that picture...), I ducked down and had to brace a bit. But I kept straight! The next one came, and according to John it was one of the biggest on coming through all morning...I couldn't size the amount of water, just ducked down again and kept on going after the shower was over...but I knew that I made it after that! I didn't realize (actually couldn't hear...) the shouting and screaming crowd on the beach, just lifted my thumb up to thank them and kept on going a slight bit more out. I turned around in safe waters, waved them good bye, and was just keeping me busy getting my skeg launched with my rope trick (worked again!), taking helmet and pfd off and to get into a smooth going mood again. But it took me about an hour to get the shaky feeling out of my legs...

The day was an easy paddle then, just NO landing in between...but eating, drinking, peeing was no problem.

Sandy (Alex) Ferguson was waiting at the Asburton River mouth, 50 km further south , equipped with a VHF radio for contact. I arrived at about 5.30 pm, guessed, the day is so nice, despite the late launch I made good progress with 7-8km/hr, and I need to keep on padling for at least two more hours! But I decided to land and to talk to Sandy about his plans in person rather than just letting him know over the VHF: "Sandy, it's nice you made it out here to catch and meet me, but I just don't want to land yet..." :-)

Talking to Sandy on channel 16 only didn't seem to bother anyone here...he didn't see any need to move over to another channel to keep on talking.

My landing through moderate rough stuff was probably not really out of his kayaking book Sandy wrote, but this was the German beginner's way :-)) - rolling up the beach again with a most elegant gravel handroll...his wife caught everything on video! No publishing without editing by the actor, please... :-))

We greeted, talked about the plans and I found out they came with a van raedy to stay the night! Means another helpful hand in the morning...thanks Sandy and wife, to spend the time for me! But I dared to ask if they wouldn't mind if I kept on going for another two hrs or so...the meeting point was Long Beach then.

The beach in general changed from the gravel only Kaitorere Spit up to Fisherman's Point beach down to the Ashburton River mouth, having some steep gravel in front of cliffs now. It was probably the going down swell in general, or the beach was creating just a bit less of a dumper, but during the day the landing was not that much scary any more for me. Or maybe I was just able to calm down, knowing that there was someoneone waiting for you raedy for catching...

It turned out that the road acces on the map wasn't existing, and Sandy spotted me from a cliff top already further down south!! Means I had to turn about 500 m back to meet them...but oh well, for some good company and talk at night and a helpful hand it was well worth going back!

The second landing of the day was easy going, and probably the dumpers were even less, as forecasted. The only problem was Sandy's van and wife were sitting high on top of some cliffs already on a private farmer's meadow, the best acces he could find, and I was down there at the cobblestone beach with kayay and equipment...no big use to carry the gear up the cliffs. Sandy made it easier accessible with a rope, not to just slide downhill again...

I put up tent and came up to the van the for a short night's talk, it was good to meet them! But back to my tent I was just discussing the next day looking at the maps with Sandy, and cooking was too late then...and avocado and some soup from the hot water in my thermos did the job. keeps me slim anyway...

Forcast for Monday showed a calm and easy day, Tuesday was supposed to get some southerlies in again!

I hoped I could make it to Oamaru harbour by the end of Tuesday, not to worry about any big landing on steep beaches any more...but (to be continued next day)

Progress Report 11/10/07 Saturday - updated by Freya 09.11.07

2007-11-10T04:13:00.001+01:00

That last day off I took the chance to teach some rolls in a pool - Martin, Fiona, Jeff and David were quite keen on getting wet.

They brought their own kayaks, and I tried to fit myself into each of them.

They felt quite different to what I was used to. I enjoy having quite a low backdeck and a good kneehold in my kayak, things which I feel are quite essential for an easy layback roll. But don't blame your kayak for bad performance... :-)) - I just can't tell I could show off as I would have liked to...I even fell out once :-))

Anyway, Martin started in his Prijon Barracuda, and after getting rid of the terms like rolling with "speed, force, power and strengh", and "don't look, feel what you are doing", he got more and more relaxed and started to sidescull and to roll with feeling for the water and paddle, and with good bodymotion...it looked pretty smooth then!

David struggeled a bit with the kneehold in his kayak, and plans to give it a better outfit next time. But I think he got on what it should be like, even with the bad outfit in his kayak and more with watching the others.

Jeff seemed to have the best layback position in his boat, he was quite flexible and performed as well as Martin after a while.

Fiona never ever tried to roll, but squeezed herself bravely in Jeff's boat, and after a bit of hypervetilating she started to relax under water, and the guys could see what female intuition looks like on getting started...she learnt in a different, female way, felt, what was right or wrong and was successfull with smooth rolls without assistance at the end! Good job, girl!

Progress Report 11/09/07 Friday - updated by Freya 09.11.07

2007-11-10T03:52:00.000+01:00

I was able to finish my today's blog update in the Paddler's Zone kayak shop in Christchurch, where I briefly showed up to check the local NZ kayak equipment.
Dana, being an attentive shop assistant, looked at me, then looked at her computer where she was just busy studying my rubbish I was posting this morning on my blog (this is "work" in a kayak shop!), and said:"You look so familiar, are you not Freya? You are still in Christchurch? Good to see you here!" ...and offered me to finish my posting on the shop computer. Thanks, Dana!

-------------------------------

The whole Friday spent in Christchurch seemed again like a lost day for getting progress, it was lovely sunny and not too many winds.
Especially the town and the protected Lyttleton Harbour area was just quiet.
To ease my mind, I took the car John borrowed me for the day (Thanks, John!) after stopping by at the kayak shop and went out to Birdlings Flat again, to see how the forecasted SE 3,20 m+ swell looks like...

Good I did that!

What I got to see out there was earthshaking, literally. Dumpers double the size than yesterday would have crashed a normal house without any problem to the size of the cobblestones on the beach. Not to talk about a tiny person in a fragile kayak. You got to shiver and feel happy dry and safe high above that impact.

Impressive. Very impressive. I have never seen some force of nature like that. It looked like a momentum pic of the Nigara Falls sometimes. Spray all around you and on your camera lense. You are standig there and feel soooo small. You try to get closer for better pics sideways, then you got to run. Run away from the uphill running water, which wants to catch you and suck you back to it's deep bottom. 60, 70 m uphill. You feel the beach vibrating on the crushing water, which has only one wave to break on that steep cobblestone beach.

I took pics and videos again, will see next what came out in the low sitting sunlight. I just hope Justine gets a day like that when she'll be around, and is able to catch that with her professional camera much better than I am with my little Canon.

The swell is on the way down tomorrow, and for Sunday there is a forecasted 1,90 m in the morning, down to 1,40 m. I might give it another go then. The whole week should be (hopefully) around 1 m. Probably time enough to make it to Dunedin.

Progress Report 11/08/07 Thursday - updated by Freya 09.11.07

2007-11-08T04:09:00.000+01:00

Weather Update from Karel Vissel:
http://www.kayakweather.blogspot.com/
thu mrng ne 2bft noon se 2 bft aft se 3bft sea 2 to2.50 mtr frm se
fri mrng w 3bft noon s 3bft aft se 3 to4bft sea 2.90 to 3.20mtr frm se

Message from Paul Caffyn:
John Kirk-Anderson is picking up Freya approx. 2pm Thursday, NZ time.
And will drop back to beach early Sat. am.
I also have suggested patience...

Satellite text messages received from Freya:
The dumpers became trashy 3m over night with rising se swell no way to get out nor in later without crashing :( some more rest days :( patience...

I'm safe and sound in Christchurch again at John Kirk-Anderson's house, swell is just too big :( will try on the weekend again.

Updated by Freya Friday 09.11.07:
I had a nice tentsite in the dunes again, but the thought about launching next day into the dumper wasn't really putting me to a quiet sleep...

Actually what I had to learn about this part of the world is that a safe paddle is not only about the wind, the swell is creating especially on this open steep coastline much more of an hazard with those fat dumpers...

Karel's forcast was for Thursday an increasing south-easterly swell, but the wind and chop was still looking fine and I guessed when it becomes worse I'll just stop then.

Although I was already in my dry suit and have packed the boat, telling myself don't be a whimp and go out and just DO it, I was standing a the beach for a long time watching the dumpers coming in.

This IS a 2,50-3m high dumper!!!

They seemed to have grown a bit i size over night, and after about 1/2 hr I decided to call Paul Caffyn (good I was in cell phone range!) to ask him if he would think I was a coward pulling out for today with this wind, swell direction and - height...
My fear was he would tell me:"Liebchen, it is always looking like this on that stretch of coastline, you just need to deal with it!" or "Now when it's becoming serious NZ - conditions you are showing fear!"...or something like that...

And another one, even more trashy, same size...

But for god's sake he calmed me down and told me his forecast predicts even higher swells and more wind...and started to call around who might be able to pick me up and host me for two days. I would have been able to stay at the beach as long as necessary to wait out the weather, as I had enough food, water and shelter, but for sure two days or more to spend off are better in nice company!

First I walked up that mile along the lake extension to find a road access, still in my dry suit and even with an overcag on! Chilly it was that morning! The whole area didn't look too inviting to knock at a farmhouse's door, and I was glad to get a call soon that John Kirk-Anderson was able leave work early to pick me up at about 2pm. He came luckily with a 4-wheel drive car that we didn't had to leave my kayak behind on the beach.
We drove back to Christchurch - actually back to the Banks Peninsula where he lives in a lovely house high overlooking Lyttleton harbour.

Mary, his wife, prepared a nice dinner to fill up my not spent energy today. Thanks, Mary!

Later we sorted out two new local contact phone numbers for my epirb, just in case things go wrong that there is no delay in the rescue process.
John Ashby of the Rescue Coordination Centre New Zealand actually contacted Paul Caffyn about that issue himself after he read in the paper about my circumnavigation, and offered to put his number firsthand in the US-epirb registration list, and suggested JKA's or Paul's number as being locals as second. Probably a good thing to avoid delays! Thanks, John, for thinking about that!

Progress Report 11/07/07 Wednesday - update by Freya 09.11.07

2007-11-07T15:17:00.000+01:00

Weather Update from Karel Vissel:
http://www.kayakweather.blogspot.com/
wed mrng sw 4bft noon s 4bft aft se 4bft sea m 2.70 aft 2.10mtr frm s
thu mrng ne 2bft noon se 2 bft aft se 3bft sea 2 to2.50mtr frm se

Satellite text message received from Freya:
43.51 172.22 Taumutu 33km only :( solid headwinds and choppy seas & a big southerly swell ending in huge dumpers are draining on a sunny day

Update by Freya on Friday, 09.11.07:
Launching that morning was an easy surf, dragging the kayak back to the water was the toughest part. Again I was missing my trolley...

The seas looked almost quiet, the swell was at least on this beach not creating much of a surf.

I was on my way cutting across to about the middle of Kaitorete Spit, the beginning of the most boring but treacherous long dumping surf beach, which goes all the way down to Dunedin.

My GPS told me at least something about my progress, but it also told me the continous force 4 headwind slowed me down to only 5 km/h.
Once closer to the new stretch of beach, I got a closer look to the uninviting dumpers. The first hour paddling closer to teh coast I guessed I could manage with some patience to find a good wave backside and abit of a lull to go in somehow safely.

But wind, chop and obviously the swell increased the next two hours instead of going down as I hoped, and coming up to Fishermen's Point, the end of the long Kaitorete Spit hiding the shallow lake Ellesmere, I viewed some houses on top of the waves.

Although I planned on reaching at least the Raikaia River mouth, checking if the landig around there would make any difference to the uninviting dumpers, I felt not comfortable enough any more alone out there with no real rest in the choppy waters, and decided I had to go in NOW before conditions got even worse. And just in case something would happen on the landing, better to be where some houses are visible...

Actually, the last two hours I forced myself not to *look* too much to the beach, as some of the increasing dumpers really scared already the hell out of me...but it came the time I needed to prepare myself mentally for the landing.

Ok, lifejacket and helmet on, fastened the seatbelt, backrest upright, table folded down and turning in 90 degrees, facing the scary beach. On waiting for the right wave, I got pushed back down the beach by the wind quite some distance, so I gave me another bit of a rest paddling again up the beach way over the spot where I actually wanted to land...

Again I waited for about ten minutes for the right wave and hopefully a lull after that, at least sitting somehow safely right behind the one and only big dumper line.

Eventually I gave it a sprint on the backside of a bigger wave, hoping the next one would be even smaller. It worked, I almost came in ok, but the "smaller" one was still that big it turned me sideways and rolled me 360 degrees over up the beach. A hand roll with touching the gravel, it wouldn't give you points in Greenland, but I was glad about my helmet and about my obvious reflex of bending forward in that shallow water.
Sitting upright again, I needed to remember to get out of the cockpit asap, throwing the paddle high up the beach, as the surge of the next waves would suck me back into the sea. Jumping out and getting the cockpit flooded with the next dumper was one timing, but at least boat and I stayed where we landed.
I held onto the boat until it calmed down again a bit, rolled it on it's side to get most of the water out to be able to pull it up the steep beach.

My first lonely dumper landing proved not to be very elegant, but at least boat and I were ok!

It was a lovely sunny day and still 3 pm only, but I didn't feel like launching again today...sun and wind dried me and my gear quickly.

Progress Report 11/06/07 Tuesday - updated by Freya 09.11.07

2007-11-06T14:57:00.000+01:00

Weather Update from Karel Vissel:
http://www.kayakweather.blogspot.com/
tues mrng sw 4 to 5bft noon sw 4bft aft sw 3bft seas 1 to 1.30mtr from e dir
wed mrng sw 4bft noon s 4bft aft se 4bft sea m 2.70 aft 2.10mtr frm s

Satellite text message received from Freya:
I took option B and just escaped the high tide boulder trap into the next lovely sandy beach. Tumbledown Bay seas are just not inviting yet for a solo paddler :) 43.51 172.46

Update by Freya 09.11.07:

Martin and Fiona had to work on Tuesday like normal people, so they were so nice to get up at 4.30 am with me, and dropped me at Te Oka Bay again where they picked me at 6 am - yawn!! Can't tell I'm in best shape that early, but that's a kayaker's life!

The surf waves going into the bay that morning looked a bit different with the increasing southerly than the day they picked me up, and both admitted they'd rather go to work now than paddling out there...

The tide was going down up to 9.20 am. I didn't see a chance on launching from the steep boulder bank with the waves crashing on it, so I guessed at low tide the sand bank will show up again as it did when I came in.

I put up the tent as it was quite chilly that morning, and went for a quick nap...

At about 8.30 am I climbed up the hill to have a look out there on the open sea, and from the hilltop it felt quite ok. I knew from driving along there the next bay - Tumbledown Bay - had a flat sandy beach only with no boulders, and that there were two tents sitting down there two days ago, and no farm (like here...) to be seen at the bay's end. The surf going in there was much less than what went into Te Oka Bay.

Low tide came, and the waves were still touching the steep boulder bank, no way of loading the kayak on the flat soft sandy ground. I felt a bit trapped in, and thought when even on low tide launching in these southerlies is still difficult, when else shall I get out of here???

I decided to give it a try, checking how it is out there, and when it doesn't feel good, I will just land in the more inviting Tumbledown Bay and wait for better times...

Packing on and pushing down the loaded kayak from the big boulders was probably not best for the kayak's hull, but I had no other chance...I dragged the boat in the last shallow breaker line into the middle of the bay, the cockpit cover still on to prevent it from getting flooded too early (it worked!), waited for a lull, quickliy jumped in and even managed to put on the spraydeck before the next breaker came. And yes, I took the cockpit cover OFF before doing that...

The breaking through the several surf lines proved to be a bit of a punch and being quite wet, but it was a good practise for future launchings.

But once being out of the bay, the swell and seas were feeling pretty high, and especially too high for feeling good to plan a landing somewhere on that frightening long steep boring stretch of coastline which was next on the map.

So I took the expected option B and was at least away from that steep boulder beach trap, and surfed smoothly into Tumbledown Bay. I found a pefect camp spot in the dunes, dried out again and just relaxed all afternoon.

At about 5.30 pm two guys came down the long walkway to the bay from the gravel road, they have seen my kayak from above, and due to the press article on Saturday they assumed it must be me, the lonely German kayaker...

They were teachers in an ourdoor education camp back in Te Oka Bay, with 30 students spending a week together. They asked if I would be up for a talk in front of them, and I thought yes, why not? At least some distraction from "waiting" only.

I got a ride in their van to the camp, and just felt sorry I had already eaten a boring noodle dish...that night everybody cooked something and put it on a buffet table to share, but I just managed to try at least a bit of a delicious pie for desert.

After dinner, everybody gathered around an open fireplace in the camp's main building, and it was FAQ - and answering time :-)))

I think I enjoyed their engagement and interest! 30 young students aged 20+, the only question they didn't ask me was my age...am I really already that far away from them??? :-)))

I found my way back to the tent in darkness later, enjoying a lovely clear southerly night with stars.

Progress Report 11/04/05/07 Sunday/ Monday - updated by Freya

2007-11-05T08:47:00.000+01:00

The first rest day, dedicated to necessary computer work for my shops, e-mailing and updating my blog...although it was great paddling weather... :-(

Actually it's history now, but sometimes I did regret my decision to stop for a day after going around Banks Peninsula, I should have better kept on going...

But Martin and Fiona are great hosts, they helped me with everything I needed to repair a tiny leakage or two in my kayak, washed my stuff, and prepared a famous NZ-delicacy for dinner - "Whitebait" patties, some little tiny glassy slithery fishes eaten whole...actually once they get cooked in an egg omelette and turn white they look like "normal" white fish meat and taste pretty nice. Martin was proud of me overcoming my doubts, as Fiona refused to try :-))

Monday were some rough southerly seas anyway, so I took my chance to see the NZ immigration office to precautionary extend my visitor's permit, that I don't have to deal with that issue paddling somewhere in the West Coast bushes...

Martin cooked a great curry, and I bought a Pavlova for desert, which we enjoyed with Strawberries, golden Kiwifruits and some whipped cream. Enough calories for tomorrow's paddling day!

The next stretch of coastline is said to be the most boring one of NZ, up to Dunedin it's only flat hinterland with a steep, unattractive shingle beach, shapeless and with no place to hide and land safely...hope the swell won't be too rough. Some 5-7 paddling days for that leg, and I'll be in Dunedin, where the coast is going to be attractive again all around the southern and western part!

Progress Report 11/03/07 Saturday - updated by Freya 04.11.07

2007-11-03T12:48:00.000+01:00

Weather Update from Karel Vissel:
http://www.kayakweather.blogspot.com/
sat mrng ne 3 bft noon ne 3bft aft ne3 to4bft seas 0.80mtr from se
sun mnrg nw 2bft noon sw 3bft aft s 3bft seas seas from sw and s

Satellite Text Message Received from Freya:
I'm in CC having a day off. I will update my blog tomorrow!

Update by Freya 04.11.07:
The paddle along the coastline of the Banks Peninsula promised to show a lovely coastline with some impressive high cliffs.
A I planned only to paddle 55 km into Te Oka Bay, I started late again launching at 9.30 am.
I was thinking about having a day off at Christchurch after 7 days of consecutive paddling, updating my blog and doing some other "buisiness" stuff (no, my body never needs a rest...), but couldn't make up my mind until lunchtime...but when I passed Akaroa Harbour entrance I thought I must be within cellphone range again!

I managed to give John a call, as we were talking about that already on Friday morning. He arranged a pick up be Martin and Fiona Frazer, a nice kayaking couple from Christchurch.

Before the last corner, a guy on a sit on top kayak was floating around dangling some fishing lines into the water, and I thought no, that can't be Martin expecting me...waved at him and passed...but still I thought if it was him making fun out of me coming in later then???

Coming into lovely Te Oka Bay, Martin and Fiona were already standing in the water and expecting my landing! Some small surf got my top wet again, but - this time I guessed I didn't need to put on my helmet for landing as there are people expecting you...and the surf is small...and the loosely attached helmet got washed off the back deck by this small wave!...never get out of your planned way...

We unloaded the boat completely, dragged it up the sandy part, but then I thought how could I have managed to carry the boat up this steep boulder beach on my own? No way of dragging a kayak up that one without cracking the hull...I would probably have taken it apart then!

BUT - this time a lovely "support team" was waiting for me, having a pickinick dinner ready spread out in the trunk of the car! What a warm welcome! Thanks Fiona and Martin! I thought when Paul Caffyn 30 years ago with his support crew had every night such lovely hosts and dinner served in that way...

An hours drive to their house in Christchurch, where I'll spend the next day "recovering"...and typing my updates.

Progress Report 11/02/07 Friday - updated by Freya 04.11.07

2007-11-02T15:08:00.001+01:00

Forecast from Karel Vissel:
http://www.kayakweather.blogspot.com/
fri mrng ne 2bft noon e 3bft aft e 3 to4bft sea 0.60mtr to 0.80mtr from se
Sat mrng nw 3bft noon e 3bft aft ne 1 bft seas 0.80 mtr from se

Satellite Text Messages Received from Freya Friday 11.02.07:
43.42 173.03 I saddled my Flying Horse today and cut across Pegasus Bay to the Banks Peninsula. Okains Bay 12.5h 75km some entertaining seas out there :)

Update by Freya 04.11.07:
My alarm went at 4.45 am, as John wanted to show up at 5.30 am...actually he knocked at my door already at 5.15, I was barely dressed yet :-))
At least I had a strong helper to get my kayak down to the waterline again, as it was still lowest tide...
I couldn't tell taking "official" publicity pictures is my favourite job, but someone has to do it...and least this reporter was well-known, welcome and announced, different to the guys in Iceland just showing up and disturbing our well-desrved rest :-)) ...
He wanted "action" shots, but how preventing kayaking action in 50 cm hig surf waves??? Out came a really funny shot which was in the Saturday news allover New Zealand...
I eventually managed to launch then at 6.30, mentally prepared for a boring 75 km crossing to Okains Bay at the Banks Peninsula.
I headed right into the darkest spot on the horizon, no land in sight until 2-3 pm, and even then it was hidden in some foggy stuff. Only my trustworthy T-GPS told me I mad good progress despite of some seas coming from the side. Every hour I allowed myself to switch it on and to reward my efforts by counting down the numbers in a reasonable way. The "estimated arrival time" still left an hour open for unexpected delays, and eventually I hit land at 7.30 pm then.

I couldn't help but exploring at least one big cave at the entrance of Okains Bay...sitting in the wide first room for about 10 min to check and listen, no swell was coming in, until I decided to pull out my light to get in a bit further...just backing up from the cave beach through a narrower gap, as there WAS some swell coming in...just in time for me to be safe again...take care, girl! Not he first time to be in caves with some unexpected swell, or, Greg ??? :-))

The same situation as in Motunau Beach, lowest tide and shallow water upstream the river I should actually paddle a bit to see the campspot...means carrying the gear and dragging the boat some 100 meters again...
Tired from the day's paddle and the distance dragging the kayak I picked the next best (actually a great remote one!) spot in the dunes to put up camp, not bothering again to find the "official" campsite...and actually happy NOT to see anybody.

I just found out at night switching my Sat-phone on again I obviously forgot to send out the message of the previous Thursday night I was already typing, but I stored it as I wanted to check the weather first before I announced to cross Pegasus Bay...sorry, guys! Will never happen again...not that the next "Lost in New Zealand" story is going to start... :-))

Progress Report 11/01/07 Thursday - update by Freya 04.11.07

2007-11-01T21:19:00.001+01:00

Satellite message recieved by Freya 11/01/07:
43.03 173.05 Motunau Beach 35 km only half day off in civilization for shower & skeg repair. Lovely paddle along white bluffs. Maybe cut across Pegasus Bay tomorrow.

Update by Freya 04.11.07:
(Actually I missed to send out the text message un Thursday as I typed it, but then stored it because I wanted to hear the weather report first about the possible crossing of Pagasus Bay...sorry)

I launched late at 9.15am that day, as I planned to paddle only 35 km to Motunau Beach, the start of my planned crossing of Pegasus Bay. I guessed if I cut across the bay I'll save 30 km, which I can spend in a 1/2 day off that day...and paddling along the Christchurch corner would be as interesting as open water anyway...

That short paddle went along some amazing white bluffs, lovely to look at!
Coming into Motunau Beach, I paddled up the river im lowest tide, and soon got stuck in shallow water...first time I missed I didn't pack my trolley! It will be a long drag to the grassy edge...

I walked up the beach to bump ino a gathering of elderly ladies, who seemed to be interested to hear where I came from and who I was...where please would be the best place tp put up a tent???

I knew already the village tent site is way up the road, and who wants to walk...so it happened that one of the ladies, Rosalyn Richard, invided me to "put up tent in her backyard", which turned out to be a lovely room with a hot shower and some nice company...just across the landing site! Thanks, Rosalyn! Lucky I am...and phone calls were made, laundry washed, buisiness as usual as a lonely traveller...

I found my skeg box was eventually fully broken out of the attachment, but two little screws fixed the problem for now...I hope to get the new skeg box sent from Britain asap.
Dragging up the boat is probaly one of the most challenging tasks as a solo traveller, either unloading it completely (which I barely do) or dragging the heavy barge meter my meter up the beach, straddling the boat and pulling on the cockpit rather than just pulling the toggle.

John Kirk Anderson, one of the most experienced New Zealander's paddlers, happens to be a reporter for the "Christchurch Press" and was keen to meet me around his area to take pictures for an article. As I would miss to paddle into Christchurch the way I planned to go, he decided to drive up early next morning to take pics before I launch at 6 am for the 75 km crossing...what a job! Getting up at 2 am to catch up with a crazy lady...but thanks, John!
Another writing reporter gave me a call and interviewed me for the article.

Progress Report 10/31/07 Wednesday - updated by Freya 04.11.07

2007-10-31T18:12:00.001+01:00

Satellite text message received from Freya:
2.50 173.19 Gore Bay 60km 10.5h a bit boring in quiet wind and water...1st campfire tonight, listening to easy surf, it's a lovely night!

Update by Freya 04.11.07:
Another uneventfull paddling day, again way offshore crossing over from the Kaikoura Peninsula.
I came in closer to the shore at the point where the main road ( and the noisy trains...) left the shoreline, enjoying a bit more the view of a now remote coastline again. It was a tough paddling day for me, I took lots of breaks, but could count 60 km at the end of the day anyway.
I came almost into Gore Bay, but decided to stay off the little village, and landed at 7 pm on a gravel bar before, just surrounded but sheep and cows. It was a lovely night! I put up my first campfire with the plenty of convenient driftwood around, and just enjoyed being on my own actually! The surf didn't look to threatening.
When landing on lower tide you have to pull the kayak more up, but the waterline doesn't reach the steep gravel bar and stays on more shallower sandy areas where landing doesn't hurt the boat or me at least...

Progress Report 10/30/07 Tuesday - updated by Freya 04.11.07

2007-10-30T16:31:00.000+01:00

Freya made impressive progress today. Following is the text message she sent from her satellite phone.

Satellite message from Freya Tuesday 30.10.07:
42.26 173.41 Kaikoura South Beach 12.5hrs 70km no break dead calm fighting only my aching body with closed eyes paddel, plenty seals & dolphins on a sunny day.

Forecast by Karel Vissel:
Tues mrng nw 4bft noon nw 3bft aft nw 3bft seas 1.60 to 1.20 mtr from se

Update by Freya 04.11.07:
The launching this morning looked like it's gonna be wet through some dumping stuff...I saw some fishermen down the beach launching their boat just when I started packing...sh...lost chance to ask for help!...but they came in again already when I was just about to start!!! I waved frantically to make them coming closer to help me launching, but off they were...driving away with the fishing boat on the trailer...

I need to get that launching in dumping surf done on my own!!! And don't forget the skeg help rope...

Actually, I guessed when you try to stay dry you probably will be thrown sideways by the next wave, so I just walked in the water on a lull between the sets pulling my boat behind me, straddled it quickly and paddled out with the open spray deck to a quiet spot - but still caught a wave which filled my cockpit. But pumping this time was assisted by my helmet used as a bailing device - you know on a trip like this any piece of equipment needs to have double function... :-))

The day was a quiet paddle, far offshore, uneventfull besides lots of dolfins and seals again, I probably missed to see way more as I use to paddle on such long days with about 80% closed eyes...a meditational day...but I liked to reach Kaikoura that night, a 70 km day.

Around the Kaikoura Peninsula the reef was full of seals and plenty of tourists parking their vans exaxtly at the place where my little boy and I were sleeping 7 years ago (as tourists...) with open van doors and some seals on the doorstep...good rememberings!

Two snorklers were probably as surprised as I was when they lifted their head out of the water, but I kept on going around the Point to the South Beach. The sun was low and bright, and I unfortunately couldn't see much.

I felt a bit sorry for the missed chance of great pictures! But I had to land in last light again, not being too picky about the obvious "no camping" area on nature reserve ara on a walkway along the coast...a paved corner with a bench served well for "homeless" Freya :-)) - but although I got up at 6 am next day some jogging guys were already on their way...

Progress Report 10/29/07 Monday - updated by Freya 04.11.07

2007-10-29T07:05:00.000+01:00

Satellite Messages Received from Freya Today, Monday 29.10.07:

Message 1: Rounded the Cape in rough conditions landed to find a way to launch without this f*&%^% skeg becoming stuck and climbing out in rough seas :(

Message 2: 41.55 174.06 35km only skeg problem wore me a bit, but rope trick works now :) ugly dumping stuff to launch tomorrow :( dolphin played with me

Forecasted weather from Karel Vissel ( http://www.kayakweather.blogspot.com/ ):
Mon mrng nw 4bft noon nw 3bft aft nw 4 bft seas 1.90 mrng south of cape campell seas 2.90mtr from s and se
Tues mrng nw 4bft noon nw 3bft aft nw 3bft seas 1.60 to 1.20 mtr from se

Update by Freya 04.11.07:

Cape Campbell...Joe Heberley told me I might not make it around in Moday's forcasted conditions...it was about 7 km away from where I camped last night.

I launched through some moderate surf from a small cobbels beach, and for sure I got the rope skeg stuck...with a sidewind becoming stronger I felt the urgent need to figure that problem out at some point.

So I just climbed out straddling the back deck, slid backwards until I could reach the attached loop on the skeg and luckily pulled it out. Balancing act succesfull done...but was that a solution for the next lauchings, too???

But first around the Cape...it is a flat area with very confused seas through lots of reefs. I knew there was a way sneeking around close in to the beach, but the water was so shallow I got stranded on the first try...
I took my chance to jump out and to have a look around the point to check the situation, and what I saw was very confused seas, but at least I thought I could manage to stay close in as planned. Some fat seals were occupying the beach at the Cape, obviously surprised to see a person out there...I hurried to leave them alone and launched again - again with a stuck skeg...

Paddling around proved to tricky and some hard body work, but it was actually even more rough south of the Cape then! For some reason I expected it to be somehow sheltered, but I should have better studied Karel's forecast more carefully...wind 3-4 from nw (following), but seas 2,90 m from s/se!! Still I wasn't used to seas coming from the opposite wind direction, but for sure it created some lovely water...

Should I dare to land again and hopefully manage to launch then with an idea of a rope-system for a non-stuck-skeg, or just keep on going with no skeg? There was no inviting place to land around the Cape in these conditions, lots of reefs with intimidating spray going over it. Just don't look at it and stay far off and out...

I decided it was worth a try to climb out again to loosen the skeg, I trusted my balancing skills even in rougher water...but it happened what must have happened - I lost balance on straddeling the stern and slid into the water :-((

Not too much of a big deal, as I was in a dry suit and had lots of options to get in again, but being out there on your own first time in such a situation makes it feel a bit different.
I decided not to go for the wet-hair option with an elegant re-enty and roll, but rather just pull myself up again, straddling and slide in - just into a fully flooded cockpit from the next set of waves then...hmmmm, ok, pumping out was the next job to do, and I was really missing my electrical pump I used to have in my older kayaks...the manual pump with an almost full on spray deck eventually did it's job half, but I felt it was not worth to keep on pumping, I was a bit exhausted and chilly, and rather spotted a bit of a protected gap behind a reef to somehow land safely.

I gave my body and soul a full two hours break after that funny exercise, and pulled a piece of string out of my repair kit which I threaded through my already existing little pull-out-loop on the tip of the skeg. I attached it behind my seat, and on the next launching it worked well! The rope skeg was stuck from cobbles and sand again as usual, but I released the main rope, pulled on my "help rope", and out it was!
Just releasing the help rope off the skeg loop then, and I will never launch again on my own without that piece of string attached to the rope!
I was already thinking about how to release the skeg on my own when I paddled with Greg around Iceland, but you actually DO what you feel what needs to be done at some point just sometimes a bit later...

After a two hours break the launching off that beach was almost impossible, as the ebbing tide left only a kayak wide gap in the reefs...I really hadt to kick me to give it another go, as the strong following winds were so tempting out there...

But I noticed once being on the rough sea again, although I made good progress, the previous experiences were telling on my body and mind today, and I pulled to a next inviting looking beach spot after only 1 1/2 hr of paddling again. Some broaching sideways in a moderate dumping wave, still keeping dry hair...well, I am used to paddle with my dry suit hood on :-))

I stuck my helmet under the back deck net only without clipping it to teh net, that it first gives me an easy access to grab it, and second somehow forces me to put it on on any landing and not to loose it then in any size of surf. It doesn't hurt or bother me to put it on, and it is easy to underestimate the conditions...being out there on your own anyway. And a dangling helmet besides the kayak which came off the net but still being clipped on is nothing worth either.

Landing at 4pm already gave my some rest I needed, I was in cell phone range and could call all my contacts who wanted to hear from me...

Progress Report 10/28/07 Sunday - updated by Freya 28.10.+ 04.11.07

2007-10-27T17:39:00.000+01:00

Updated weather from Karel Vissel:
Mon mrng nw 4bft noon nw 3bft aft nw 4 bft seas 1.90 mrng south of cape campell seas 2.90mtr from s and se
Tues mrng nw 4bft noon nw 3bft aft nw 3bft seas 1.60 to 1.20 mtr from se

Satellite Update received from Freya:
Sunday 28.10.07 S41.43 E174.12 65km 9hrs, just 6km close to Cape Campbell...kicked my ass I was not fighting my way through Tory Channel entrance earlier than 11.30 h...
6 dolfins 1 penguin 1 seal 2 surfies and 100 aching muscles beach camp in sand tired but happy

Update by Freya 04.11.07:
This means Sunday I had to land in last light 20.30 h at a beach close to Cape Campbell, but as I started that late I couldn't make it around on Sunday in still kind of quiet conditions.

Arriving at the White Bluffs at the end of the x-ing of Cloudy Bay I actually wanted to land, but a strong current around that corner wasn't inviting at all. I preferred to rather fight on southwards to get rid of that current, and just to keep on paddling...prepared to live in the boat all day as usual.

Who is starting late has to paddle a bit harder and longer... once I felt I could at least make it close to the Cape I decided to cut across not only Cloudy Bay, but Clifford Bay, too, heading somewhere to the Lake Grassmere campsite.

I paddled the hell out of my body and against the haunting "estimated arrival time" on my GPS, hoping to make still a landing in last light.

The first wider surf lines were breaking off the Awatere River mouth, and what I guessed were two seal playing in the waves turned out to be two guys on their surfboards!

Approaching the Lake Grassmere area I was looking for where the official DOC motorcampsite might be, and saw some lights by the water, but I never guessed this was the campsite so close on the narrow strip bewteen the water and the bluffs...and I landed about 200 m to the right. It was almost dark, and I actually guessed why should I bother with an "official" campsite...I was more than happy to relax in my own sand dune spot than to deal with elderly people travelling in motorhomes (who needs a motorhome...) :-))

Update 28.10.07 by Freya:
Sunday morning 9.30 am, and I'm on the computer again...why??
I haven't got a floating office yet...

My hosts left early this morning for going to town, getting up at 5am together with me.
Joe checked the forecast again, put his nose outside, but had to tell me the weather was not following the forecast yet...it was still blowing force 6 out of the south, and the tide was still running into the Channel, pointless to give it an early start to be able to reach Cape Campbell today...
I waved the family goodbye, standing at the sheltered beach, not able to see what was going on there around the corner of West Head.

I guessed better than hanging out for three hours I'll give it a try and poke my nose around the corner, see how it looks like!
Who's not trying, won't get an answer...

First start at 7.30 am, I ferryglided across the Channel entrance, made it up further than the lighthouse, but then my GPS told me my speed was down to ZERO...actually a lovely playspot if you don't want o go anywhere, but I wanted to go SOMEWHERE!!!
I had to turn around then, getting flooded downstream with 10-12 km/h, and just enjoying the morning sun.

Joy Heberley, Joe Heberley jun. wife, was still at home and asked me to come inside to warm up again, not really unwelcome for a 3-hrs waiting time. Thanks, Joy! She was just out feeding three abondoned lambs with a bottle!
They do have a lovely big modern house, too, with lots of wood and a nice backyard.

I picked her up yesterdy with her husband Joe riding the family's motoryacht shuttle deep into the fjord to Picton, the interisland ferryharbour town, actually a good chance to get further inland without the "hard" work of paddling off course...
The ride was cold and rough, and standing on the way back felt much better than sitting! I prefer my kayak on the long run...

I'll give it another start at 11 am, when the tide has turned running out of the Channel and going south, and the wind died out a bit more then. No wind against tide anymore, but it will still be rough seas out there, I expect. Hope to nake it at least to Fighting bay, maybe White Bluff, but no way to reach Cape Campbell today... :-((

Thank you all guys for all the new best wishes for my trip, it really motivates then to get on the computer again by the next chance...

New Zealand is 17 hours ahead of EST (Standard time zone: UTC/GMT +12 hours; Daylight saving time: +1 hour; Current time zone offset: UTC/GMT +13 hours), so please keep that in mind as you follow Freya's progress. (And please excuse any mistakes that I make when trying to post the correct blog date!) -

Karel's weather reports indicate wind strength via the Beaufort Wind Scale. If you are unfamiliar with this scale, please see the excellent reference (adapted for kayakers) that Derek Mayoleth has posted at http://www.kayakquixotica.com/wp-content/uploads/beaufortscale-kayak.pdf. -- Greg

Following is the latest weather report from Karel Visel:
Sun mrng s 4bft se 2.70mtr noon e 2 to3bft aft ne 2 to3bft seas 2.40mtr from se
Mon mrng nw 4bft sea 1.70 mtr noon nw 4bft aft nw 4 to5bft sea 1.40mtr se dir

Progress Report 10/27/07 Saturday - updated by Freya 28.10.07

2007-10-27T00:57:00.000+01:00

Forecasted weather from Karel Vissel:
Sat mrng s 4bft noon s 4 to5 bft aft s 4 to5bft seas 2.90mtr from se
Sun mrng s 3bft noon e 2bft aft e 2 to3bft seas going down to 2mtr from se dir
mon tru thu looks good nw winds 3bft seas around 1mtr

Satellite text message from Freya 10/27/07:
It's going to be a rest day which I don't mind...I feel good, have pumped up shoulders like bodybuilder :-))

Update 27.10.07 by Freya:

Saturday turned out to be an (already welcome...) rest day, as strong headwinds wouldn't be much fun and progress. I took my chance to get on the family computer and typing these updates.

Joe talked me through lots of good fishermen's experience along the upcoming coast, and the forecast looks like it is really necessary to get past Cape Campbell by Sunday night, even on some headwinds and bad tide tomorrow morning. Tide and wind can only change to the better by afternoon and night, and when I'll make it around the Cape by daylight I'm fine. Means I'll have to dig in hard tomorrow again for some 60 km whith not perfect conditions...

When the wind turns to stronger NW on Monday, which is an offshore wind and very much welcome south of Cape Campbell, he said it would be too rough to pass the rocky reefy point of Cape Campbell...especially on Monday morning when there is wind against tide then....so I'll get up VERY early tomorrow to make that leg well in time...let's pray for the southerly winds easing down enough to get against!!!

Monday past the Cape it would just blow me down the coast with not much big seas running on the beach...continuing with these conditions probably Thu and Wed.

Thanks to anybody who wished me well on the comment site! I appreciate all people being mentally with me in my lonely trip...

Progress Report 10/26/07 Friday - updated by Freya 27.10.07

2007-10-26T14:33:00.000+01:00

Satellite text message from Freya 10/26/07: (Updated by Freya 27.10.07)

S41.12 E174.18 Okukari Bay near entrance of Tory Channel. Started paddling 7.40 am, smoking catabatic SW following winds off French Pass/ Admirality Bay, pretty rough stuff! Tide was turnig to follow at 8.30am that day.

Not much "real" surfing, as the boat is heavy and I wanted to save energy for the day. On passing an oil platform halfway to Clay point, the workers on deck probably guessed what is that crazy lonely kayaker doing out there...

Around Clay Point the same strong smoking gusty wind was still up, but now 90 degrees from the right...I ducked down low, and kept on paddling...good to be flexible. But it doesn't take much to capsize a kayak or to get rolled around even a couple of times :-)) - almost feels like a propwash of an helicopter !

I happily put in a brief relaxing food and pee stop, once getting off the catabatic mountain winds on the next channel entrance.

Now the wind was a friendly following WNW up to Cape Jackson, a pleasant paddle with good progress in sunny conditions! Even the view of two snow capped mountains came up to the right, and I just felt like being in the Icelandic fjords, paddling way offshore from point to point. Just Greg wasn't with me...I took my heavy PFD off, felt just great and enjoyed digging in deep.

Cape Jackson was well known for a heavy tidal race around the point, but the tide was still with me, sneaking in close to the rocks was no problem then, I just got washed through in a good speed! This was the time I started to turn my GPS on, to check what the speed was doing, actually a good device to have in tidal areas!

Conditions, time and weather were still good, so I left the last possibility to pull in somewhere into Queen Charlotte sound for the night, hoping to at least reach Tory Channel or even Fighting Bay, if conditions stayed ok.

But for sure they didn't...although there was not much wind left I still made good progress towars Cape Koamaru, but for sure the tide turned around the Cape and I was sneeking along close to the rocks to avoid the biggest tidal stream against me more offshore.

Some bigger rocks close to shore left the decision open how to go against upstream, in between or around...both options proved to be hard work! I just kept on paddling double speed for some minutes, actually the smalles gaps for sure turned out to be the fastest streaming areas. But the longer way around the rocks against the stream wasn't tempting either!

And then some bad weather came in...actually predictable, after the following wind all morning there was a lull for about two hrs, and then the wind turned to the forcasted southerly. At least after Rununder Point the tide was with me again, but wind against tide created some choppy stuff, and I was hiding behind most bigger rocks, now getting flooded through again. At some point I should have better already put on my helmet, just in case...being alone out there...

Reaching smoother waters of Tory Channel entrance, I sneeked around the corner of Okukari Bay where I expected to hopefull have a good landing. That bay looked really inviting to me after that long time on the water!

Well, I must admit after I kept on going around Cape Koamaru I would have loved to reach Fighting (girl's) Bay, as Paul Caffyn aimed for that on his trip 30 years ago and couldn't reach it :-)), but to reach that bay in time before nightfall I should have started earlier and should have had that on my mind the whole day. But weather and tide didn't allow me after going around the Cape Koamaru, and I was happy to be just safe in Tory Channel. No, I'm NOT competitive... :-)))

A big interisland ferry boat just came out the channel when I came off behind a huge rock gap, pretty impressive!

In Okukari Bay I think I made the right choice on landing on th beach to the right! Landing on a remote corner to the left where a lovely meadow seemed to be just waiting for me I climbed uphill to the biggest of the three houses to ask for allowance to camp.

Joe Heberly, the owner of the two impressive fishing boats moored in the bay and patron of the whole "Hebeley Clan" living in that bay, invited me to stay in the sheering shed, which was very welcome on that windy wet night after 12 hrs of paddling! He drove me downhill to the beach again in one of those funny working vehicles called "rhinos" reminding me to fast running golf carts with a gas engine.

He showed me around in the shed, a luxury accomodation compared to a wet and windy tentsite!

I was just about to paddle my kayak closer to the shed, as the cart came down again, this time with Heather, his wife, and an upgraded invitation to a stay in their big luxury house! How could I say no...a hot shower, warm bed and some company was more than welcome at that time!

I first hosed myself down outside in my saltcrusted drysuit, then I enjoyed some less cold water with way less clothes inside...what a life! A call to Bevan that I'm fine, the regular sat-phone update for the rest of the world, and a great dinner with some good talk finished up that exciting day.

A big thanks to Heather and Joe Heberly hosting me two nights in Okukari Bay!

The Heberly family clan owns a fishig fleet and some land with 2000 sheep, operated already some previous generations in that bay and obviously well prepared for the future! Two sons and some grandchildren live in the other houses, at high sheering season assisted by some workers helping out. An obviously fullfilling life!

Freya is on her way!

2007-10-26T01:02:00.000+01:00

Freya has started her circumnaviation of the South Island of New Zealand.

I'll provide some of the satellite phone text messages received from Freya during her travels, to keep you informed of her progress.

Thanks, Greg! I am missing you on this trip...but I will do my way solo this time. We had a good time around Iceland! Freya

Karel Vissel, who provided weather tracking during our Iceland trip, will be helping Freya with weather information and forecasts for her New Zealand trek.

Thanks, Karel!!! Good job already in Iceland, looking forward to work with you in these treacherous waters :-) ! Freya

I'll stay in close contact with local fishermen for the weather, and will do frequent phone calls to locals like my lovely Nelson hosts Bevan Walker and Nora Flight, Paul Caffyn and Pete Notman. All of them will help with little bits and pieces of informations to get the best idea of what to expect.

My communication way will be like I'll send a brief position and condition report via Satellite phone to Karel every night and every morning to get the updated message on the just switched on Sat-phone in easy and fast (if you send a message the "waiting in the orbit" message comes in instantly, otherwise you have to wait for maybe long time...).

To save money and typing time, Karel is so nice to forward this message via e-mail to "1st hand" interested people like my family, local contacts and Greg, who is putting it on my blog and updating the trip map.

I'll update my own messages and add more informations next time I'll have computer access then, to give you all a better idea about what's it like here!

So it's worth checking previous postings which might be updatedby me then!

My saftey gear for a solo trip includes all availabe gadgets in these days, like epirb, VHF, Sat-phone, GPS map, mobile phones (German and NZ-Sim-cards), flares, smoke, strobe-light, flashlight, spare Reed hatch covers and underwater repair tape handy in the cockpit, helmet, spare paddles, paddle leash...and I felt comfi starting the trip in my Kokatat drysuit, as waters and temperatures are still chilly and conditions change easy. I might change to shorts, Kokatat Tec Tour jacket or Reed short sleeve cag sooner or later, we'll see.

And - if I might take my new Kokatat Ronin PFD off to enjoy some (frequent...) "freedom paddling feeling", but to which my epirb, VHF and camera are attached (actually pretty heavy stuff...) - it sits on my spraydeck on paddling but it is clipped to it's loop, so just in case, it's still attached to my body...

I'm paddling my 3-pieces NDK-Explorer I used on my Iceland trip, as Nigel did his best to finish and ship me the brandnew Explorer he made for me, but it arrived just one day before I left, too late for me to outfit and wrap it the last day... :-(

So I can wear this one out completely, and a brandnew one is waiting for me at home...and, just in case I'll break the old one on my trip here, I'm looking for someone willing to fly my new one over from Germany - any volunteers?? :-))

Received 10/24/2007 from Freya: (updated online by Freya 27.10.07)

I did my food shopping in the morning, packing everything in little ziplock bags, and was worried if thing will all fit in my kayak...ready to go when Bevan's finished work. After a week's waiting I was eager to start!

Bevan dropped me at Croisilles harbour at 19.30 hr. Packing in record time while Bevan enjoyed his deserved dinner, just two little bags didn't fit where they should...I just stuffed them into the cockpit...

Just to get going again, I decided to do a 45 min strong headwind warmup-test-paddle, on which Bevan joined me in his (unloaded...) Nordkapp the first 30 min.
Then I was on my own!
I fighted a bit into the headwind to feel my shoulder and body working again, but I already turned back to cross the bay to a lovely landspit camp. Not much daylight left (different to Iceland!), and I felt the heavy weight of the kayak and my untrained body...I actually was only workinh the last weeks (months...) and didn't paddle at all since Iceland besides some days on the Isle of Man symposium.

I put up my new Hilleberg Allak tent in darkness, still a bit confused about which corner belonged to which side, but I'm sure I'll learn quick. :-)
It got shaken already to the ground on the first night in strong catabatic winds coming down the mountains from just about everywhere! But this time no support from inside with split paddles was needed, it stood solid and strong. I think it was a good choice! Thanks Hilleberg!
I fell into my sleeping bag pretty tired from the day, not even having the desire to cook, write or to do a proper teethbrush...

My "official" start will be from that campsite tomorrow!

Recieved 10/24/2007 from Freya: (updated online by Freya 27.10.07)

S40.56 E173.50 On official campsite at French Pass. I had good, but strong gusty SW 5 all day.
Through French Pass the strong tidal race stream was still up at 1.5 hr before high tide, but I got through with no problems.
Just keep off the main stream and sneek close to the rocks on the right!
I watched a big motoryacht going upstream a bit first, then ferryglided across to the other side like we would have done it with our kayaks, too, but this fat boat got washed!! It seemed not to have much control...but eventually reached safely the othere side. This *IS* a treacherous place!
I paddled only 30km/ 4hrs today, now allowing myself a bit time to do some gear and body check :-)

Received 10/25/2007 from Freya: (updated online 27.10.07 by Freya)

A very stormy night with strongest catabatic winds again! I left a pile of gear with Dale and Chris Jenkins, thanks for dropping it at Bevan's in Nelson! Just good to travel a bit lighter... :-) My muscles were not too sore after the first day, feeling just good!
I sealed my dayhatch & bulkhead behind the seat, thanks Dale for getting me some sealant!
It looks like a sunny but windy day! Started paddling 7.40 am.

If you have questions or comments for Freya, please post them and she will respond as able on her trip. Knowing that people are following your trip and rooting for you does make a difference!

Greg Stamer

Recovering at Paul Caffyn's house

2007-10-23T09:47:00.000+01:00

Paul Caffyn, myself, Paul's trip partner for Greenland,Conrad, and Greg Stamer on Paul's lecture in Reijkjavik/Iceland, one day before Greg and I finished our Iceland circumnavigation

My shoulder and therefore the spirit to get going is getting better day by day, but the weather isn't quite following up...last night Paul's house was shaking in a gale to the ground, and down in the South of the Island houses roofs were flying off.

The view of the surf through Paul's window got quite impressive, but you don't want to be out there at the West Coast right now...at least it was somehow modest the first two hours of my arrival :-), but the next front arrived quickly.

I spent my time looking with Paul at maps, contctas, gear and books, and he gave me lots of good ideas what to do in which corner of the island.

I decided to give it an early start as soon as possible anyway (maybe Thursday looks reasonable for some days...), as once I'm recovered I just don't want to be sittin' there and waiting for better and best times...then I shouldn't have flewn in that early. But I took my available time window and my chance...

This means I probably won't put in an impressive overall time around the island, not to speak about a great daily average km, as sometimes you might only be able to paddle for a few hours a day and then have to take a break again for days...patience is required.

But as that wasn't the goal of this trip, who cares. Last Icelandic summer conditions are far away...this here won't be a picnic anyway, earlier or later. So let's just take it in small bites and just start swallowing early :-))

Btw., Justine Curgenven and Barry Shaw, who will give it a go around the South Island, too, starting next January, have put up a professional website about the trip, talking about recent and upcoming expeditions as well as about what kind of conditions probably to expect. Please have a look at http://www.cackletv.com/new-zealand.html

I'm in New Zealand!

2007-10-19T20:47:00.000+01:00

Ok, I'm here.

33 exhausting hrs of a quiet flight, but two hours before I touched base with NZ territory in Auckland first, I was grounded already for some days... :-((

I forgot to ask Air NZ for a sponsorship for keen circumnavigational kayakers providing a comfi buisiness or first class seat and (as usual...) I had to squeeze myself into these less than shoulder wide - at least my size shoulders :-) -economy class seats.
Waking up after a nap I felt an unbelievabale flashing pain in my left shoulder, obviously a squeezed nerv. I couldn't lift my arm any more, it hurt permanently like hell...I can tell you I was close to tears feeling temporarly disabled on such an early stage...

But who knows what it'ts good for, a good portion of humility for staying healthy in future and a bit of a delay in my start isn't a problem, as the weather has been horrible the last weeks on the South Islandanyway, and I knew it was a risk to leave home that early.

Nora was so kind to pick me up from the airport, but I felt like an old woman not even being able to lift my bags in her car...
Nora Flight and Bevan Walker are a great adventurous couple with two lovely strong kids, and I felt in good hands being hosted by them the first two days. Thanks to both of them!
Bevan has circumnavigated the whole of the South Island, too, but within 6 years. He gave me already some good advices, looking into maps and showing up potentional camp sites.

As I couldn't think about getting an early start anyway, weather- and shoulderwise, I followed Paul Caffyn's invitation and drove up on the second day to his home on the West Coast near Greymouth, in Nora's old, but trustwothy car. The Walker family was happy to go out on Labour day's long weekend on a tramping trip into the bushes.

I could hardly shift gear with my left hand, but it was at least not the first time driving right-handed on the left side, and I arrived safely after a long 5-hrs ride through on the first sunny day since weeks. But I seemed to have been quite a traffic obstacle for the Kiwis beeing used to drive that scenic windy road in a different pace...

I could reply Paul's hug on seeing him again only with an "auuutsch, please be careful!", but he took instantly up on a good job on treating my shoulder well with Arnika ointment and pain relief pills...
He offered me good local instruction on the next days, and how else can you feel more diving directly into the NZ seaside although still being comfi dry and warm, than sitting in Paul's lovely house with a great view on to the surf on the West coast, enjoying a good brew and talk.
Actually an outstanding place to live...he has a little outdoor pool on the small beachfront, which was used to be covered with some logs making a temporarly helicopter landing site when he got picked up every morning for his geologistic research work. Not to mention his hot whirlpool in the garage for cold winter days, and the miles-long library of kayaking and adventurous books of all kinds...seems like the ol' chap knows how to enjoy life! :-))

When I'm writing this now Saturday morning, he is off to guide a group through an old mining cave until lunch time, and it is the first time I take a bit of a quiet break to post something about my trip.
You might be wondering why I was so short on posting being still in Germany, but changing my main ice-cream shop as every year into a x-mas shop with 5000 items on 100 square meters takes a bit of time, love and effort.

A big "thanks" to my great long-term managers Ilona and Andrea, and to all of my 30 loyal young women working for me, that I'm able to take that long and often time off for my kayaking adventures!

I'm sorry I can't answer any e-mails so far (but I can read them!), as Paul's apple Mac computer doesn't let me for some reason...but it's good at least I can let you all know I'm safe and sound, but heaven know's when I'm gonna start paddling...

Two more last minute sponsors

2007-10-12T22:46:00.000+01:00

Thanks to Thomas Lindner from Aquaman Deutschland to help me on my New Zealand trip with his famous waterproof Aquapack-cases for my GPS, mobile phone, camera, PDA, VHF, Sat-phone and maps and charts - let's stay dry - at least with those precious items! I'll be happy to write after my trip about how they held up in those tough conditions.

And thanks to Kenneth Westman Drake from Hilleberg "The Tentmaker" to give me a brandnew "Allak" 2008 model freestanding tent for my trip. I was a great "Hilleberg" fan ever since, and now got with the Allak my fourth "Hilleberg" tent sponsored - thanks! It will give me shelter and a "home" on my trip...a great one!
I'll write about my experiences with that new model after the trip, too.

Delmarva 2007

2007-10-12T21:57:00.000+01:00

Thanks to the organizer Ed Zachowski from Qajaq USA for inviting me!

In between my work to prepare my x-mas shop with 5000 items and closing down my ice-cream shops (...ahhh, and between some trip-preparations for New Zealand, too...) I headed for a quick 3-days trip to Delmarva/ USA as a special guest to give a slide show and lecture about Greg's and my Iceland circumnavigation this summer.

The first time after I presented the show solo in Sweden and Finland, now it was together with Greg! I felt with both of us it was a good deal better, as we kept on in our slideshow with our love-hate relationship we developed on the trip... :-))

So if anybody would enjoy to see a great slide show about our

"Lost in Iceland"

trip - please give us a call! Greg and I will be available on next year's symposiums anywhere on the world!

New Zealand - yes, I am going.

2007-09-15T21:44:00.000+01:00

Where?

Around New Zealand's South Island

When?

October 2007 -???

With whom?

Solo.

Kayak: NDK Explorer

Paddles: Epic wing blades

Paddling clothes: Kokatat & Reed

Spray Deck: Snapdragon

Bits and pieces: North Water

Neoprene-Boots: Chota

Helmet: Sweet

Map case: Axel Schoevers

Spare paddle bag: Nigel Foster

Weather support: Karel Vissel

Blog updates: Greg Stamer

Thanks for the help of the "Veterans of the South Island":

Paul Caffyn, Chris Duff and Bevan Walker with Nora Flight

Contacts in NZ and ideas:

Sandy Ferguson, John Kirk Anderson, Pete Notman

Mental support: My family

Kanumesse Nürnberg 2007

2007-09-15T20:42:00.000+01:00

Kanumesse Nürnberg 2007

It was a great place to meet and to talk to plenty of kayaking buisiness people from all over the world!

It was a real international event, I had interesting talks to people from Britain, Sweden, Denmark, Netherlands, France, Norway, Finland, Iceland, Spain, Italy, Switzerland, Czech, South Africa, USA and for sure from Germany, too. Who knows where I'll be going next year...

Who ever in the kayaking industry missed this event - it is growing every year! 2008 will be even topped again with number of exhibitors and probably visitors, too. It is one of the best kayaking market places in Europe.

Chris Reed, www.chillcheater.com, and his "model", in Reed buisiness-outfit :-)

Thanks, Reed!

Oscar Chalupski, epic kayaks co-owner, gives me a big hug and good luck for for my future adventures, for sure paddling again with a brand new epic wing blade.

Thanks, epic!

110 kg submarine rolling

2007-09-11T19:44:00.000+01:00

Last weekend in Finland...

...my tiny littel kayak, not used to be a submarine...

...took 110 kg! You could tell it rolled on it's own...

...but Henrik, you did a great job! Flexible and elegant, I wish I had a video...

...anyway: head down! :-))

..............................................................................................................................

Later *I*was paddling my little submarine...

...capsize came so sudden...

...that I need to excuse for the lack of style...

...way much too much hard work...

...but we had fun!

.........................................................................................................................

A bit more stylish roll

............................................................................................................................

Harri Haapala, with a strong will and body...

...on the best way to learn the forward finishing roll!

Did you see any disabled guy? I just see a guy who is able to learn the roll!

............................................................................................................................

Le grandseigneur and host in Finland, Clas Hagelstam,

79 years - and effortless rolling!

Qaanaaq, Aquila, GP, Euroblade, loaded, unloaded... !

I enjoyed my time in Finland!

Travelling through the Bushes with style...

2007-09-08T15:12:00.001+01:00

All sea kayakers know and value the IKEA-bag as a high-volume carrying device for all dry bags, bits and pieces on a trip, but a s a low volume folding-down bag to store on top of the hatch in the loaded boat (no, I didn't bother with getting sponsored by those guys... :-))) )

I used the blue bag for years - every now and then affording to BUY a new one for an Euro (some guys who do carry *yellow* Ikea bags around haven't *bought* them!!! :-)) )

Unfortunately they proved not to be stable enough carrying loads and tons of gear on our Iceland trip up and down long beaches, day by day...the sewing of the handles broke several times, and the fabric didn't really look better after each day. Well we fixed the handles, but...

After our Iceland trip an old kayaking friend, Matthias Panknin, gave me those *red* bags on a stop-by visit from a different German company - Möbel Kraft - but although I prefer *red* much more to the common *blue* (who cares??) the problem seems to be the same on the long run...

So I decided to start sewing my own bags - *black* for sure - with solidly sewn on handles which will last for years in salt, sun and sand.

I used Texamid 5.5 outdoor fabric, available at Globetrotter Germany, and normal belt fabric for the handles. I sewed everything with a normal household sewing machine first, but then gave it to an upholstery to re-sew the seems with a solid, durable thread. Any "normal" thread wouldn't last long on our kind of trips.

And, oh well, to made this piece of gear "unique" I embroided my name in silver :-))) (with my household machine!)

Actually, I use to carry three of those bags on a trip. They take all my dry bags and stuff I carry in my boat.

You want one, too? Get the pattern from a blue bag and get going on your own! :-))

The Mutation of the white Rockpool Underground Prototype

2007-09-08T14:30:00.000+01:00

From a plain white fibreglass shell to a lovely shiny kayak!

Paintig session with two-components paint in my living room...

The finished shiny, black new family member, nicely labelled with a fat "PROTOTYPE" sticker besides all company names...

There is only one problem with my lovely new Rockpool Underground prototype kayak -

due to the split of the owners of the original Rockpool Kayaks company neither Aled Williams, now Tide Race , nor Mike Webb, still Rockpool Kayaks, are right now into following the project...

My new kayak or a similar one are not going to be produced in the near future...at least they donatetd me their muatual baby!

But they can trust it is in best hands, it is a great member of my rolling kayak family...

(My folding rolling kayak is missing in this line-up...)

Rainbow Helicopter

2007-09-08T14:18:00.000+01:00

... Anglesey Sea Kayak symposium 2007...a helicopter was in the air to demonstrate sea rescue...a rainbow colored helicopter was playing on the water, too...

pictures by Nico Middelkoop

Teaching at Sipoon Kanoottiklubi Finland

2007-09-08T12:54:00.000+01:00

Clas Hagelstam from Sipoon Kanoottiklub/ Finland/ near Helsinki invited me to teach a weekend at their club.

They provided a nicely heated little pool at a service house, which just took two kayaks afloat. A perfect teaching site!

My room was just in the same building, actually the office of the club. Clas did a lovely job to host me, filling the fridge, putting up fresh flowers and fruit on the table, preparing meals, donating me a *black* (and white striped...) bathrobe, and taking me around Helsinki for sightseeing on Sunday morning. Thanks, Clas! All old school gentlemen's style... :-)

About 15-18 students each day, three days in a row, and my skin looked almost like the baby's who are normally using the pool, too :-)) - but I still had energy for an outside rolling demo in front of their clubhouse Saturday night before the crayfish-dinner-party.

Friday night after a good salmon dinner I held my 2nd "Lost in Iceland" slideshow, which I started to enjoy more and more to do...I guessed talking a slideshow is not my job - but it is actually fun! People asked a lot of questions, thanks for listening!

Amongst my studets was Harry Haapala, a strong disabled guy, who was very keen on learning how to roll. He was paralyzed from the hip, and we figured it was best for him to learn the forward finishing roll, which he almost got! One more session, and he'll be doing it! Good job!

People on the Sipoon Kanoottiklubi encourage disabled people to go kayaking, and take good care about them, encouraging them to be fairly independent.

They built an easy wheelchair-accessible ramp and boat slide, but the main innovation was a (probably the world's first) remote controlled kayak trolley!

The boat slide, ramp and rack, where the disabled person can swing himself from the wheelchair into the self-launched kayak.

Tom enjyed to demonstrate the remote controlled kayak cart.

Not far away from a kiddy's remote controlled car, but this one has a very useful background!

The loaded kayak can drive down to the slide then to launch!

Henrik smiles at the crayfish party

Thanks for inviting me to teach and lecture!